Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake

Dear Devon,

Last year on Valentine’s Day, slightly blue scones— made with blood oranges— appeared on your kitchen table. I thought I’d pick up where you left off. This morning, I threw together a blood orange and olive oil cake. Blood oranges are in season. And the fiery skinned fruits are all over the market stands.

These oranges were bursting with juice and color. The smell was completely intoxicating. I felt a bit wasteful using the juice to flavor my cake. It seemed much more appropriate to drink the sweet and slightly acidic juice. I called the still groggy eyed boy into the kitchen to share in the sweet flowery smell of freshly squeezed juice.

I have tried to keep kitchen equipment and utensils to the bare minimum. Not an easy task, given my love of smooth ceramic mixing bowls, enamel coated Dutch ovens, and silicon molds. I am now forced to be a bit more resourceful. This is how I ended up using my terracotta cazuela as a baking dish.

A traditional cooking vessel, the cazuela is used for just about everything: roasting, boiling water, stewing…the list continues. Baking a cake seemed a natural extension. The thick clay walls would act almost like an oven within the oven, insulating the cake nicely and providing even heat. I suspected that these same properties would result in a beautiful crunchy crust. (I was not disappointed).

In general, it is good practice to measure the capacity of the baking vessel before filling it with batter. I only wish I had thought to measure the capacity of my mixing bowl too! Half way through the recipe, I realized that it was not possible to mix the liquids and the flour in my medium sized bowl. A bit frantic, I had to press my aluminum pot into service.


Mixing the blood orange juice into the batter, I issued a silent prayer that my cake would not turn out that light blue color of your scones. I reread your post before starting for some advice. To try to avoid the blue effect, I mixed in tangy yogurt instead of lowfat milk. I hoped the acid from the yogurt would help balance the pH of the batter.

As I poured my gooey batter into my lightly oiled cazuela, I admitted my doubts aloud. My remarks were answered with an eager request to lick the sides of “mixing bowl.” The largest spoon in the house was plopped into the mixing bowl and handed over.

The cake emerged from the oven golden on top with a wonderful crusty edge. It was moist and light with the subtle orange flavoring. The cazuela baked the cake evenly and a bit surprisingly, released the cake easily and in one piece. I cut two generous slices and served the cake with a cup of strong dark coffee. My slice wasn’t quite generous enough and as I rose to cut myself another piece, a bright voice asked for a second slice even though there was still half a slice remaining on the plate!


Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake
Makes one 10 inch round cake or one 12-cup bundt cake

2 ¼ cup flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp blood orange zest and lemon zest
2/3 cup blood orange juice (roughly 3 oranges)
3 eggs, beaten
8 oz olive oil
1 cup yogurt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil the baking round. I used a 12-cup capacity baking dish. The recipe is styled for a 12-cup bundt pan or equivalent round cake pan.

In a large mixing bowl, mix together flour, baking soda, and salt.

Zest one blood orange and half a lemon. Juice three blood oranges. In a second mixing bowl, mix citrus zest and sugar. Whisk in three beaten eggs, olive oil, orange juice, and yogurt.

Pour wet ingredients into the flour mixture. The mixture will look a bit curdled but it will be fine. Gently whisk until combined. Transfer batter to the prepared baking dish. Bake for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.

Bake 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes.

Note: my baking time may vary from the standard metal baking dishes. Clay cazuelas generally take longer to heat up and probably take a bit longer when baking. I advise checking the cake at the 45-minute mark.

Vietnamese Iced Coffee

Dear Devon,

Let me tell you how the Spanish day is structured:

8:00	El desayuno: coffee, toast or croissant
9:00	Arrive at work
11:00	El cafecito: coffee, croissant, maybe a small beer
2:00	La comida: 3 course lunch including beer or wine, dessert, and more coffee
5:00	Return to work (from lunch that is)
6:30	La merienda: coffee or beer and snacks (cigarettes, tapas, fried anything)
8:00	Work day ends
10:00	La cena or dinner

It seems the further south you travel, the less time you spend working and the more time you spend eating. But who am I to complain? Any tradition that tells me to eat two croissants in one day can’t be too bad.

The workday schedule above is not an exaggeration. I had a minor problem with my water service at the new apartment. Being a newly arrived American, I was extremely anxious to have the situation resolved, but knowing a Spaniard’s distinctive schedule, chose to call my landlord at midday, as opposed to at dawn. My landlord, a respectful and generous man, but distinctly Spanish, hurriedly told me to come to his office at 6 pm. Spanish people are never in a hurry, except at closing time or before meals. To call at noon and to meet at 6 pm seemed like a long wait. What I didn’t realize is that the day really begins at 6 pm. But less than an hour later, they take another break, so that thirty-minute window is essential to Spain’s economic future. Honestly, I don’t think I will ever be able to re-adjust to an American working schedule!

Given the amount of coffee consumed here in a single day, I have had to adopt a coffee habit. My favorite coffee is the cortado. With an espresso machine, steam is quickly shot through a disk of tightly packed grounds. Just short of a full shot, the steam is prematurely shut off and a splash of whole milk is added to the glass. The result is a thick, syrupy shot of espresso with the most heavenly, dense, frothy foam. Use a tiny spoon to vigorously mix in a bit of sugar (make sure you clank the sides of your glass loudly). Even if you don’t think you like coffee, the intoxicating fragrance of a cortado will reveal your deepest coffee fantasies.

Historically, I have preferred tea to coffee, but in hot weather, a good iced coffee can really hit the spot. I am partial to Vietnamese style iced coffees sweetened with condensed milk, which in Vietnam’s colonial period substituted for unavailable fresh milk. Vietnamese iced coffees have the same intense richness as cortados and are flavored with a hint of spicy chicory. The infused chicory gives the coffee a distinct aromatic character that is woody and tangy. The coffee brews in a small metal container that rests on top of an ice filled glass. The heavy condensed milk supports the lighter coffee, forming two distinct layers of liquid that require vigorously stirring to sufficiently balance the sweetness of the condensed milk to the dark and spicy undertones of the coffee.

Gathering together the requisite ingredients is usually the most difficult part in the brewing process. Sweetened condensed milk and the unique brewing filters can usually be found at an Asian grocery store. Chicory is a bit harder to find. Zabar’s sells chicory in individual containers and can pack it to order, so you can buy a ¼ pound instead of a full pound (which I recommend). Don’t buy your chicory mixed into whole coffee beans. It will ruin the beans if it is ground with them. Chicory is extremely fragrant, slightly bitter, and a bit overwhelming, so I suggest using it sparingly. On another important note, do not go crazy with the sweetened condensed milk, unless you have excellent dental coverage.



Vietnamese Ice Coffee
For 2 servings

One kettle of boiling water
2 metal Vietnamese drip coffee filters
½ tsp of chicory
2 tbsp of ground coffee (French roast)
2 to 3 tbsp sweetened condensed milk

A Vietnamese coffee filter has three parts: the lid, the canister, and an internal perforated disk that screws into the canister. A metal piece with a screw at the end extends from the perforated disk. To remove the disk, twist the screw to the left.

To prepare the filters, carefully unscrew the perforated disk and metal lid. Grind coffee beans until the size of quinoa. Spoon one tablespoon of ground coffee in an even layer into the base of the canister. Add a pinch (1/4 tsp) of chicory. Secure the perforated disk onto the canister, turning the screw until the coffee is tightly compressed between the disk and the base of the canister. Rotate the screw two full turns to the left. This step is really important. The disk must be loosened a bit to allow for the water to flow through the coffee grounds. If the disk is too tightly secured, the water cannot flow through the filter. Shake the canister several times over the sink, to release excess or undersized coffee grounds.

Bring a large kettle of water to a boil. Prepare two glasses. Pour condensed milk into each glass. Depending on how sweet you like your coffee, add 1 to 1 ½ tbsp of condensed milk. It is always easier to put in too little at first and adjust, than to put in too much and ruin the coffee. Top with ice cubes. Set the prepared filters over each glass.

Pour boiling water in a slow, steady stream into each canister. Stop at about a quarter of the way full. Wait about 20 seconds. If the water has flowed through, the filter must be tightened. The coffee should trickle out slowly. Continue adding the boiling water until the container is roughly three quarters full. The entire brewing process should take about 5 minutes.

Chocolate Chunk Hazelnut Coffee Ice Cream

Dear Devon,

Before you put away your ice cream maker for the season, you have to try my amazing recipe for chocolate hazelnut coffee ice cream. I don’t have a fancy name for my flavor like Ben and Jerry’s, so if you think of a better one, let me know. Besides coffee, I don’t go for the rich brown flavors like dulce de leche and rum raisin. Strawberry, peach, and pear are more my style. But every so often I get that craving for something a bit more decadent. Coffee ice cream always hits the spot, especially when laced with chunks of chocolate and crushed, toasted hazelnuts. Each spoonful is delectable. Smooth, coffee infused ice cream balanced against bitter morsels of dark chocolate and smoky, crunchy hazelnuts. I promise you, it’s a recipe you’ll want to repeat.

We have discussed methods for making ice cream several times. While you lean towards more unusual recipes like cornstarch gelato or almond milk bases, I prefer a more traditional custard base for my ice cream. There are a multitude of ice cream recipes, all vaguely similar. In my experience, I have found the most success with a one to one ratio of cream to whole milk mixed with five egg yolks. Cream based ice creams are overwhelmingly creamy, almost like eating a chilled, viscous flavored butter. And 100% whole milk ice cream lacks the luxurious decadence inherent to any good ice cream. Egg yolks impart body and richness, more like frozen custard than just frozen milk. I can’t stress enough the importance of whole milk and cream in ice cream. On this, you and I agree. It’s ice cream after all: If you want a healthy dessert, eat a pear instead.

Barcelona’s ice cream and gelato is addictive. The flavors are intense, pungent, and refreshing. The rainbow of fruit flavors is spectacular. Subtly flavored fruits like melon, fig, and peach are intensified. Fig ice cream goes beyond suggesting the taste of fig but actually embodies a more advanced stage of a fig’s growing process, from tiny seed to fruit to ice cream! I tried an incredible plum ice cream the other day and promise to keep you updated on any other unusual flavors. Still, I’m dying for my ice cream maker. Unfortunately, our tiny excuse for a freezer can’t hold a frozen pizza, let alone an ice cream workbowl. Así es la vida! I’ll have to content myself with the multitude of impressive ice cream shops.



Chocolate Chunk Hazelnut Coffee Ice Cream
3 cups half and half (or 1 1/2 cups whole milk + 1 1/2 cups cream)
5 egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar
2 tbsp decaf coffee beans
1/4 cup coffee (decaf)
1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts, skins removed and chopped
1-12 oz chocolate bar with hazelnuts (for extra nutty flavor)

In a large pot, bring half and half to a light boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat. Pour in decaf coffee and whole coffee beans. Cover with a lid and let coffee steep for 30 minutes. Fifteen minutes would probably be enough, but for a richer coffee flavor allow the beans to steep longer. After 30 minutes, the milk-cream mixture will turn a soft brown color. Remove and discard the beans.

Beat egg yolks with sugar in a large mixing bowl until pale yellow. Gradually add hot milk mixture to the egg yolks one ladleful at a time. Add about one third of the cream mixture, whisking the entire time. The egg yolks need to be slowly introduced to the hot cream, otherwise the eggs will cook and scramble. It's really unpleasant when this happens, and it ruins the texture of the finished ice cream. Combine the tempered egg yolk mixture into the remaining hot cream. Heat slowly over a medium low flame, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until thickened. When the first bubbles begin to burst along the edges, test the custard for doneness. The custard is ready when a line drawn with your finger on the back of the spoon holds it shape. Transfer the pot into an awaiting ice bath to instantly stop the cooking. Pour the cooled mixture into a clean bowl and cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap onto the surface of the custard. Cool in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight, before continuing.


Roughly chop toasted hazelnuts and chocolate bar. Set aside. Pour ice cream base into ice cream maker. Freeze according to your manufacturer's instructions. It should take about 25 minutes. At the 15 minute mark, add the chopped hazelnuts and chocolate. Continue to freeze. Using a rubber spatula, carefully scrape down the sides of the workbowl as the machine spins. This is a bit tricky, but it prevents the ice cream from freezing to the workbowl, giving you more delicious ice cream to enjoy. Remove finished ice cream to a container. Freeze for 30 minutes to an hour more before serving. I use a glass loaf pan with a lid. When storing ice cream, it is always preferable to store it in a container that allows for greater surface area exposure. It is supposed to affect the flavor of the ice cream. After reading this, I noticed that all ice cream shops store their product in long, narrow containers, so I started doing it too. It allows you to make perfect, rounded scoops for nicer presentation.

Almond Chocolate Biscotti

Dear Devon,

Settling back into routine after a long and restful vacation has been my biggest challenge these first few weeks of January 2010. It's awful to realize that *gasp* you work five days a week! Notwithstanding, I've started to hate the alarm clock, cruel, insensitive machine! Stop your infernal ringing at 8:15 AM. It's just horrible to be so violently awoken. To ease the pain of waking, I made some biscotti for my morning coffee. It helps and thus far I have not succumbed to the temptation to turn back the alarm another hour.

The simple fact about my existence is, I need to have cookies in the house. I am not a big snack food person, but somehow I feel a day cannot be complete without one or maybe two cookies. The sun rises and sets, and I have my cookies. Upon returning to New York, I discovered my apartment to be cookie-free. (I guess I decided that air travel couldn't be tolerated without cookies, either.) I pulled out my books and started dreaming up some wonderful delights. Biscotti caught my eye. It has been awhile since I made biscotti. They have always been well-received and now that I am an occasional drinker I am enjoying them even more.


Making biscotti is one of those things that seems more impressive than it really is. The directions are slightly more difficult than your basic cookie. After making the batter, divide the dough in half and shape into two long loaves on a single parchment paper-lined cookie sheet. Leave about two inches between the loaves. In the past, I underestimated that distance. The result was an interconnected log of baked cookie. Slicing the loaves is the part I look forward to the most, something about using a bread knife. Place the slices on the baking sheet and continue baking, flipping once for even baking. I hate flipping the hot slices. I just don't have the patience to flip forty biscotti. My solution is to call someone over while I mull over the stresses in the kitchen. Baking is never without drama.

Dorie Greenspan, my great friend, again provided the basic recipe. With this recipe, she lists a number of variations. I opened my pantry to see what was available. Hazelnuts and chocolate would have made a great combination, but I was too lazy to roast my hazelnuts. Dried fruit is nice but I only had dried apples, not for this recipe, and somehow cranberries seemed too sweet. I found a stash of pumpkin seeds stored in a glass jar with a brown gingham top. I had purchased a huge lot of them for a yummy granola I made before the holidays. Dorie called for sliced almonds, so why not flat, green pumpkin seeds? I tossed in 1/2 cup of semi-sweet chocolate chips for fun and threw the whole thing in the oven.




I first made these biscotti using cornmeal and vanilla, opting against almond flavoring. The cornmeal makes the cookie a bit lighter but the texture can be slightly gritty. For my second batch, I used ground almonds and almond extract. Intensely fragrant, almond extract is not a flavoring I often use. I was a bit surprised by the result. It was a bit sweeter than I like. I toyed with the idea of reducing the amount of almond extract, but upon discussion with my testers was convinced against tampering with the recipe. The chocolate and almond flavors pair beautifully, but the pumpkin seeds are a bit too subtle. Their biggest contribution is the delightful green specks scattered throughout the cookie.

Soon the kitchen and living room were filled with a heady aroma from the oven. Perfectly lined up on the sheets, the sliced cookies were a welcome sight for this cookie monster. And someone stole a bite while they were cooling on the window sill (no, it wasn't me)!




Almond Chocolate Biscotti
adapted from Dorie Greenspan Baking: From My Home To Yours
makes a week's worth or 28 to 32 biscotti

1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup ground almonds
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
8 tbsp (1 stick) room temperature butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 tsp almond extract
1/2 cup chocolate chips
1/2 cup + couple of handfuls pumpkin seeds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt. In a second large bowl, beat the softened butter with sugar, using a hand mixer or the beater attachment. Add eggs, one at a time. Beat in almond extract. Gradually add flour mixture and blend just until mixed. I like to finish the mixing by hand to avoid overmixing. Using a flexible rubber spatula, fold in chocolate chips and 1/2 cup pumpkin seeds.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment or silpat. Divide the dough roughly in half. Form the dough into two even logs, roughly 2 inches wide by 12 inches long. Use a knife to assist in making the logs more rectangular. Sprinkle the tops with a few handfuls of pumpkin seeds. Bake in the oven for 20 - 25 minutes. The logs should be a light golden brown and spring back when gently touched. Cool for 30 minutes or until cool enough to handle. Leave the oven on.

When the logs are cool, carefully remove them from the baking sheet and place on a large cutting board. Use a sharp bread knife, cut the logs into 1 inch slices. Place the slices on the pan, cut side up. Return to the oven and continue baking for 10 minutes. Flip the slices over and bake for another 10 minutes. I like to arrange the slices so that they all face the same direction: That way I can tell which slices have been flipped. The biscotti are done when they are lightly golden and slighly crispy. Remove and cool on a wire rack. Don't be alarmed if the biscotti feel a bit fragile, they will harden as they cool. Store in an air tight container. In my experience, they are best eaten within the week.

For a slight variation, substitute ground almonds for the 1/2 cup cornmeal and switch almond extract for vanilla in the same proportion.

Chocolate Chip Madeleines

Dear Devon,

I have recently developed a taste for coffee. In the past, I only appreciated its smell, and the ritual of brewing. Rarely, did I drink it. The best part had always been grinding the beans and pushing down the plunger on the French press. But gradually, I grew to appreciate its flavor. Sweetened with a bit of sugar and diluted with warm milk, coffee is tasty. Now, my biggest fear is becoming a coffee-dependent zombie. Don't worry, it won't happen. I've managed to avoid being zombified by restraining myself to a few indulgent sips in the morning.


Why is it that in my late twenties, I have finally come to enjoy coffee? I blame the accessories. What shoes or handbags, earrings and scarves are to a fashion statement, biscotti and madeleines, croissants or donuts are to a great cup of coffee. A buttery madeleine or a crisp biscotti lightly moistened with coffee soothes the nerves after the merciless call of the alarm and chases away the lingering grogginess of sleep. Dressed in a simple flannel bathrobe, I feel decadent and I confess a bit cavalier with my tight morning schedule. (If I'm late, I promise, there were delays on the train.)


Lately, madeleines occupy my mind. I love their elegant shape and subtle flavor. A recent trip to the Silver Moon Bakery inspired me to butter and flour my madeleine pan. Silver Moon on the Upper West Side makes the most delicious cakes, pastries, and breads. They flavor their madeleines with a light sprinkling of slivered almonds or chocolate. Inspired by this idea, I baked a dozen madeleines dusted with chopped bittersweet chocolate. Thinking about more madeleines for tomorrow, numerous flavors come to mind including coconut, pistachio, lemon verbena, jasmine, and dried cherries.


Forget the coffee, these are addictive!!


Chocolate Chip Madeleine
Makes 12 madeleines (adapted from Dorie Greenspan)

4 oz melted butter
2 eggs
2/3 cup flour
½ cup sugar
1/8 tsp salt
½ tsp vanilla extract
chocolate chips coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare madeleine pan: butter molds and lightly flour. Set aside.

Gently melt butter over a pot of simmering water.

In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs with sugar until the ribbon stage. The mixture should be pale yellow and doubled in volume. Alternately mix in flour and melted butter in several stages, energetically whisking in between additions. The batter should be thick and dense. Flavor the batter with vanilla and salt, whisk until combined. Set aside for 10 minutes.

With a large spoon, generously fill each mold. Sprinkle the tops with coarsely cut bittersweet chocolate.

Bake for 16-18 minutes or until the tops spring back when gently touched. The edges should be golden brown. The madeleines should release from their molds fairly easily. Let rest on a cooling rack. Serve at room temperature or slightly warm.

P.S. I love your suggestion for everyday fruit tart. I am going to try it out. I just bought some beautiful tiny pears which will be perfect in your recipe. Will keep you posted!!