Meyer Lemon Honey Madeleines

Dear Devon,

I finally had a chance to sit down and read through your copy of Patricia Wells' Simply French. I paid special attention to your dog-eared pages and added a few tags of my own. Before returning the book, there are a few recipes I must try out. I am drooling over her recipes for thick veal chop with wild mushrooms and asparagus (p. 175), and cheese and bacon potato cake (p. 203). But today, I am once again enamored with the idea of making madeleines.


I realize I already told you about my love for these delectable shell-shaped cookies, but I must do it again. Please indulge me. I'm always looking for new ways to make madeleines, and Patricia Wells offers five variations! (Madeleines aux cinq parfums: au chocolat, au citron, au miel, aux noisettes, et aux pistaches.) Obviously, she loves madeleines as much as I do.

I considered her flavoring techniques and made some adjustments in my latest dozen. Using a mortar and pestle, I ground the lemon zest into the sugar, gently persuading the zest to release its essential oils. What the Meyer lemon lacks in size it more than makes up for in flavor. The zest is intense and flowery. The juice is like lemon concentrate, with sweet notes and a distinct tang. The addition of honey subdued the intense lemon flavor while adding a subtle nuttiness. It is popular to take your tea with lemon and honey, why not a madeleine?

The only thing consistent about a madeleine is its shape. I am always surprised how different the recipes are for these treats. Patricia Wells asks for six large egg whites whisked until frothy and mixed with 13 tbsp of melted butter and 1/2 cup of finely ground almonds. I'm sure it tastes fantastic, but I'm not in the mood to separate eggs, so I went back to Dorie Greenspan's recipe from Baking from My Home to Yours.

Waiting for them to emerge from the oven, I am tortured by their sweet buttery fragrance. At the end of my patience, I burned my hasty fingers sliding them from their molds. The results, as always were fantastic. Tart lemon and the round, smooth flavor of honey are perfect in the buttery madeleine.

Meyer Lemon Honey Madeleines (makes 12)
adapted from Dories Greenspan Baking from My Home to Yours
inspired by Paricia Wells Simply French p. 262-265

2 eggs
5 tbsp butter, melted
4 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp honey
3/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup cake flour
pinch of salt
1 meyer lemon

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter and lightly flour a madeleine pan. Set aside.

Melt butter in a double boiler over moderate heat. Set aside to cool. Using a mortar and pestle, grind sugar and zest from one Meyer lemon. Whisk together eggs and sugar until pale yellow and doubled in size. Fold in the sifted flour, pinch of salt, and baking powder. Gradually whisk in cooled melted butter, honey, and juice of the Meyer lemon. Spoon into molds and bake 12 to 15 minutes until golden brown and plump. The madeleines should slide easily out of their molds. Serve with coffee or tea.

Chocolate Chip Madeleines

Dear Devon,

I have recently developed a taste for coffee. In the past, I only appreciated its smell, and the ritual of brewing. Rarely, did I drink it. The best part had always been grinding the beans and pushing down the plunger on the French press. But gradually, I grew to appreciate its flavor. Sweetened with a bit of sugar and diluted with warm milk, coffee is tasty. Now, my biggest fear is becoming a coffee-dependent zombie. Don't worry, it won't happen. I've managed to avoid being zombified by restraining myself to a few indulgent sips in the morning.


Why is it that in my late twenties, I have finally come to enjoy coffee? I blame the accessories. What shoes or handbags, earrings and scarves are to a fashion statement, biscotti and madeleines, croissants or donuts are to a great cup of coffee. A buttery madeleine or a crisp biscotti lightly moistened with coffee soothes the nerves after the merciless call of the alarm and chases away the lingering grogginess of sleep. Dressed in a simple flannel bathrobe, I feel decadent and I confess a bit cavalier with my tight morning schedule. (If I'm late, I promise, there were delays on the train.)


Lately, madeleines occupy my mind. I love their elegant shape and subtle flavor. A recent trip to the Silver Moon Bakery inspired me to butter and flour my madeleine pan. Silver Moon on the Upper West Side makes the most delicious cakes, pastries, and breads. They flavor their madeleines with a light sprinkling of slivered almonds or chocolate. Inspired by this idea, I baked a dozen madeleines dusted with chopped bittersweet chocolate. Thinking about more madeleines for tomorrow, numerous flavors come to mind including coconut, pistachio, lemon verbena, jasmine, and dried cherries.


Forget the coffee, these are addictive!!


Chocolate Chip Madeleine
Makes 12 madeleines (adapted from Dorie Greenspan)

4 oz melted butter
2 eggs
2/3 cup flour
½ cup sugar
1/8 tsp salt
½ tsp vanilla extract
chocolate chips coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare madeleine pan: butter molds and lightly flour. Set aside.

Gently melt butter over a pot of simmering water.

In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs with sugar until the ribbon stage. The mixture should be pale yellow and doubled in volume. Alternately mix in flour and melted butter in several stages, energetically whisking in between additions. The batter should be thick and dense. Flavor the batter with vanilla and salt, whisk until combined. Set aside for 10 minutes.

With a large spoon, generously fill each mold. Sprinkle the tops with coarsely cut bittersweet chocolate.

Bake for 16-18 minutes or until the tops spring back when gently touched. The edges should be golden brown. The madeleines should release from their molds fairly easily. Let rest on a cooling rack. Serve at room temperature or slightly warm.

P.S. I love your suggestion for everyday fruit tart. I am going to try it out. I just bought some beautiful tiny pears which will be perfect in your recipe. Will keep you posted!!