Stuffed Artichokes

Dear Devon,

Two weeks ago, I left the temperate Mediterranean climate of Barcelona for skyscraper city New York. The decision to leave was based in reason, but as is often the case, emotions and reason don't always align. The adjustment has been smooth but not without frequent thoughts of Barcelona or of my friends lucky enough to call Barcelona home. So, while I try to launch myself back into New York life, my archive of photographs reminds me of that fantastic year in Barcelona.

Since returning, I have spent many afternoons trying to organize the room: wedging books into shelves and jamming clothes under the bed. Sorting through my digital folders, I found this post from last autumn that I never put up. It is amazing how much changes in a year. Wild mushrooms are still a priority but perhaps not as important as securing that elusive full-time job or a perfect apartment...


(From October 2010)
While all of Catalonia is in the throes of wild mushroom season, I am enjoying the dwindling supply of this autumn’s artichoke harvest. Though noticeably smaller than when I first arrived, they continue to pop up in Barcelona markets, and I am taking full advantage. Unlike their giant globe counterparts in the US, these chokes boast delicate, tightly packed leaves, and are unmarred by long overland transports. One of the tastiest parts is the stem, which extends four or five inches from the base and still supports long curling leaves. But what I love best is the absence of sharp prickles. These artichokes are defenseless. I’m going to attack with full force!

Given their abundance in local markets, James Beard’s baked stuffed artichokes was the inspiration I needed. Artichokes can seem intimidating, unapproachable, and even diabolical, but bolstered by Beard’s energetic and witty prose, any home chef can easily prepare an elegant serving of artichoke for a first course or a light luncheon.

I can count on one hand the number of times that I have prepared artichokes that didn’t come out of a jar. I love their distinct tang and buttery richness, but my last encounter with this prickly tuber left me searching for dragon skin gloves and a samurai sharp knife. And so it was with a bit of lingering doubt that I purchased four small, tightly packed buds in my local market. Unhampered by stinging needles, preparation was significantly easier than I had imagined. A whole artichoke fit snugly in my hand, allowing for greater dexterity and speed. Soon my cooking pot was bubbling away with freshly shorn chokes.

With the upper leaves removed and the fuzzy choke hollowed out, an artichoke makes a neat container. Beard provides several possible fillings, including crabmeat salad, cubed avocado, duck with mayonnaise, sweetbreads in cream, and chicken hash– but my eye fell on a hearty French-Italian inspired filling of mushroom, sausage, and herbs.

It would have been easy to make this a purely Spanish dish, stuffed with wild Catalonian mushrooms and bits of jamón. But I opted for a closer interpretation of the recipe. I doubt Beard would have minded, either way. He was a big supporter of local ingredients, and anyone who loves food like he did could hardly have objected to the addition of some bright orange rovellons. In the end, white button mushrooms worked just as nicely, but I did manage to sneak in a bit of Spain in the form of fuet, a salty, porky, cured Catalonian sausage. A few slices go a long way, so I limited myself to 2 tbsp of diced fuet.

Often it is the artichoke hearts that get all the attention, but at least with these, the stem has great flavor too. As breadcrumbs were in short supply, I resisted trimming the stem to a short knob. I cooked the artichoke, stem and all. Then I diced the cooked stems and folded them into the prepared stuffing. I worried that without this extra bit of flavor, the distinct taste of artichoke would get lost in the rich meaty stuffing. This is about artichokes.

I served these fresh from the oven as a first course. This kind of dish is best eaten among close friends: Roll up your sleeves, put your elbows on the table, and by all means, use your teeth! The leaves were easy to separate from the core, surrendering the soft flesh buried under the savory blanket of stuffing. The juice dribbling down my arm meant I had lost that battle of decorum, but shouldn’t enjoyment take precedence in these circumstances?

PS. Beard says they’re good cold, too– and he is right again. The leftovers made a tasty lunch the next day.

Stuffed Artichokes
adapted from James Beard American Cookery
(makes 4)

4 small artichokes, trimmed and cleaned
lemon, halved
1 clove garlic, crushed
¼ cup mushrooms, chopped
¼ cup leek, chopped
¼ cup parmesan cheese, grated
¼ cup cured sausage, chopped
¼ cup breadcrumbs
2 tbsp butter
½ cup white wine
salt and pepper

To prepare artichokes, trim off the woody, dried bit at the end of the stem. Using a paring knife, strip the first layers of fibrous skin from the tip of the stem to the base of the artichoke. Remove a few layers of the outer leaves. With a heavy duty, sharp knife, remove the tips of the artichokes. Trim any remaining leaves that may have sharp prickles. Place the entire artichoke in a pot of water with a few wedges of lemon. Continue with remaining artichokes. Bring the pot of water to a boil and cover. Simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until the leaves are tender and pull away from the center when lightly tugged. Remove from the hot water and allow to cool, about 20 minutes.

In a sauté pan, melt butter and add leeks, garlic, mushroom, and cured sausage. Cook over medium heat to lightly brown. When mixture is nicely browned, add breadcrumbs, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Gently toast breadcrumbs and allow crumbs to soak up all the delicious fat from the sausage and melted butter. Remove mixture from the pan and allow to cool in a medium sized mixing bowl. Add parmesan cheese and mix well.

Remove the stems and scoop out the center leaves to create a small bowl. Finely dice stems and removed central leaves. Add to the parmesan-mushroom mix.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Gingerly separate the leaves, be careful not to detach the leaves from the central choke. Scoop filling into the central cavity and tuck into the gently opened leaves. I find it is easiest to hold each artichoke in the palm of my left hand and use my forefinger and thumb to fill the chokes and leaves. Place each stuffed artichoke into an ovenproof casserole dish. Add liquid (white wine or broth) and place in the oven for 30 minutes, basting twice with the pan juices. The artichokes are done when the tops are nicely golden brown, moist, and tender.

Pizza Dough Part II: Mushroom and Garlic

Dear Devon,

Ever since I discovered how easy it is to make fresh pizza dough, I have made pizza for lunch and dinner several times. I am surprised that I never thought to try it before. How foolish of me, to have avoided yeast-based recipes simply for fear of pulling dense, unleavened bricks from the oven!

While the process of making dough is a constant, toppings offer a freedom of imagination almost unparalleled since the “recipe” for fried rice. Of course, there is the standard use of tomato sauce and cheese, but beyond that… the possibilities are endless. Rummaging through the fridge has produced a lengthy list of unusual, but delicious combinations. In a pinch, I have used smashed garlic and onions. It was all I had in the house. It was delicious, though gum was helpful after lunch. The roasted garlic gave the pizza a surprisingly strong smell and a hint of burnt sweetness. Why isn’t this a standard topping?


Picking my own toppings is definitely the best part of making pizza at home. I don’t limit myself to the ones that you can find in pizzeria display cases. I’ve found success with a variety of toppings both in combination and by themselves. Thinly sliced eggplant rounds, goat cheese, mushrooms, spring onions, rosemary, fresh tomato, and of course, garlic, just to name a few. But don’t let me inhibit your imagination!

P.S. You’ll notice that I’m using a paella pan as a pizza board. I like to think that living in Spain is taking my resourcefulness to new heights.


Mushroom and Garlic Pizza

Prepared pizza dough, enough for a 12 inch pizza
3 to 4 white button mushrooms, sliced paper thin
3 cloves of garlic, smashed
1 round of fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
¼ cup tomato puree
cornmeal for dusting
salt

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. To get that crisp texture, make sure the oven is at temperature before putting the pizza in. Lightly sprinkle the pizza board or pan with a bit of cornmeal.

Lightly flour a work surface. Roll the dough roughly circular, adding additional flour as necessary. Carefully lift dough and place onto baking pan. Spread tomato sauce leaving a ½ inch crust. Top with cheese, mushrooms, and garlic.

Bake in hot oven for 15 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the crust is nicely browned. I like to turn on the broiler for about 2 minutes at the very end. I prefer my pizza slightly burned.

Veal Chop with Wild Mushrooms

Dear Devon,

I traded you Alice Waters for Patricia Wells. With the number of cookbooks published every year, I am surprised that trading cards of superstar chefs have not yet been included in every issue of Saveur. Cookbook trading, or borrowing, in our case, is better than laminated cards.

Our cookbook swap is still affecting the way I think about food long after Patricia Wells’ Simply French returned to your library. You had dog-eared a recipe for veal chops with wild mushrooms and asparagus. In addition to Wells’ mouth watering writing and the luscious photograph on the facing page, your high regard for the recipe made me pay closer attention. I studied it and copied it down for later use.
I am not sure if it was the excitement of seeing crates of wild mushrooms, or the blood red loins of beef, but it wasn’t until I walked through the market a few weeks ago that I finally made Wells’ recipe. Of course I made some slight changes. I traded baby asparagus for leftover thin green beans and seasoned one side of each chop with herbaceous za’atar seasonings. Friends of mine brought this tasty mix back from their trip to Israel last summer, and I loved it so much I brought it to Barcelona.

My weekly meat consumption includes cold cuts and sometimes chicken, but in general, I am not a big meat eater. (I confess, I have a weakness for good hamburgers, which are a rarity over here). This was one of the best steaks I have ever eaten. The meat was perfectly cooked, pink and soft inside, but with a salty, herby thick crust. When the knife pierced the juicy meat, my mouth instantly began to water and nothing beats that satisfying crunch of a nicely crusted aromatics. The fragrant mushroom port sauce enhanced every bite, bringing out the sweet grassy undertones of the meat.

You will probably run to your bookshelf in search of her recipe. I wish I had a copy of her book here, so I could continue my dialogue with Ms. Wells. After the success of this recipe, I am eager to try more. I can’t believe I waited half a year to make this!



Veal Chop with Wild Mushrooms
Roughly adapted from Patricia Wells
(serves 2)

2 veal chops
2 tbsp za’atar seasoning
100 g wild mushrooms
2 handfuls of thin green beans
¼ cup port
1 tbsp butter

Let meat come to room temperature. Liberally salt and pepper both sides. Generously sprinkle za’atar spices on one side of meat. Gently pat into the meat. Set aside to rest for a few minutes before cooking.

Sear veal chops za’atar side up over high heat in a large sauté pan in a bit of olive oil. Once the meat has settled into the pan, avoid the temptation to touch the cooking meat. This will ensure a nice browned crust. Depending on the thickness of the meat (mine was ¾ of an inch), sear 5 to 7 minutes before flipping. Continue cooking over a medium high flame for an additional 3 to 5 minutes. I prefer my meat rare-medium rare, but I know many who prefer well done. In any event, cook the meat to your desired temperature. Remove from the pan and set aside on a warmed plate, then cover with foil or a dishtowel.

Over a medium flame, deglaze the pan with port and add the mushrooms. Gently cook the mushrooms in the reducing port sauce. Cook for five or seven minutes before adding thin green beans with their stems removed. Cook for an additional two or three minutes. Add a lump of butter and melt into the sauce.

To serve, top steak with mushroom port sauce. Serve with bread and butter and a green salad.

Grilled Cheese with Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms

Dear Devon,

Despite my attempts to stay on top of food trends and all things culinary, I have been unforgivably lazy since leaving New York. I half-heartedly blame the time difference and our temperamental internet connection, but in the end, it’s the lack of a proper lunch hour. With more thought, I realized that my do-or-die urge to read the entire NY Times in one 45 minute period has vanished, now that lunch lasts three hours. I am no longer addicted to the food section of the Times or to the twenty or so food blogs I love. So, it was with some excitement that I returned to my old surfing routine and found rejuvenating ideas from old favorites.

I love sandwiches, especially hot pressed ones. When I see a good sandwich idea, I whip out a pad of paper and a pen and quickly copy it down, inspiration for a relaxed Saturday lunch on the roof terrace. And so it was that one random Tuesday morning, I found myself on the Tartine Bakery and Café website, drooling over their delectable pastries and excited by their treasure trove of sandwiches. The grilled cheese with carmelized onions grabbed my attention. I threw on a pair of jeans, pocketed my keys, and ran out the door to the market. I had just finished breakfast, but lunch was already on my mind.


Back in the kitchen, I proudly announced my lunch plans, which led the boy to reschedule his library visit. Tartine’s sandwich does not include fried garlic or mushrooms: That inspiration came from the basket of old mushrooms chilling in the fridge. I really had no idea what I was doing. The garlic fried a bit too fast, the onions got a bit dark, the bread was a three days old, the mushrooms could’ve used a bit more fat, and I forgot to salt. But in the end, it didn’t matter. It was the epitome of an autumnal sandwich: savory and dark, complex flavors of sweet onion and melted cheese, punctuated by pungent, aromatic garlic and juicy mushrooms. The crisply toasted bread made a satisfying crunch with every enthusiastic bite. This should definitely be a $10 sandwich.



I am fantasizing about making this for you and Jeff when I come back to New York. All the elements can be prepared in advance and assembled upon your arrival. Throw the sandwiches into the oven at a low temperature to allow them to crisp up. Serve alongside a hearty butternut squash soup, and you’ll have the perfect autumnal lunch.


Grilled Cheese with Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms
(makes 2 small sandwiches)

Swiss cheese (Emmental)
1/3 cup onions, thinly sliced
5 large button mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced on a bias
4 tbsp butter
4 slices of bread
2 tbsp olive oil

Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a medium sized skillet. When the oil is nice and hot, gently fry the sliced garlic. After 3 minutes or so, remove the garlic. Be careful not to burn, the edges should be light golden brown and the garlic should remain crisp. Set aside to cool. Turn down the heat and add the sliced onions. Slowly cook for 15 minutes, adding a tablespoon of water, if needed, to prevent the onions from burning. Remove carmelized onions and reserve with fried garlic. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet, add sliced mushrooms. Cook over low heat until both sides are nicely browned, 7 to 10 minutes.

Using a large serrated knife, cut four slices from a fresh loaf of bread. Spread each side with a generous amount of butter. Lay carmelized onions over two slices, top with garlic slices and mushrooms. Set a generous slice of cheese over onion-mushroom mixture and top with remaining slice of bread. Heat skillet to medium high temperature. Grill sandwiches until the cheese is nicely melted and the bread is golden brown. A bacon press would work very nicely here.

Portobello Mushroom Tacos

Dear Devon,

Things are about to get a bit hectic. After a week of pounding the pavement, we found an apartment and will be moving in on Saturday. I don't know when our internet will be up and running so I wanted to squeeze in this last post before I disappear into Barcelona's landscape. I dragged out and revamped an unsent post from months ago. My geographic location may have changed but this recipe for portobello mushroom tacos is still just as delicious.

Rummaging through the fridge in search of a quick dinner, I came up with the brilliant idea of making portobello mushroom tacos. Tortillas are regularly found in my fridge. I buy them in packs of 50 at my neighborhood market. Though they aren't as tasty as your homemade tortillas, they are an adequate substitute. At $1.25 a pack, they come in handy in the 7 o'clock hour.


Rich, hearty portobello mushrooms seem an obvious substitute for grilled meats. First, I roast them with a generous sprinkle of olive oil and salt, then set them aside to cool. I slice the large mushrooms into 1/2 inch strips. Tucked into a warm tortilla, and topped with some salty white cheese and fresh salsa, the flavor combinations are astounding. The richness of the mushrooms' flavor reminds me of the damp earth. Chunky tomato salsa, flecked with jalapenos and shredded cilantro, adds a spicy citrus tang to the succulent mushrooms. The mix of salty cheese provides a nice balance to the bright salsa, while adding a bit of savory creaminess.

Vegetarian and Mexican food aren't two words that usually go together. But these mushrooms tacos defy that logic. I served them alongside eggplant and Swiss chard enchiladas to a group of veggie friends. I'd say it was a big hit. Leftovers? There weren't any, only smiling faces and full bellies.


Portobello Mushrooms
serves 2 (makes 4 to 6 tacos)

3 large portobello mushrooms
6 tbsp olive oil
3/4 tsp salt
6-8 tortillas

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil. Set aside.

To prepare mushrooms, brush off any dirt and remove the large woody stems. Sprinkle each mushroom with 2 tsp of olive oil on both sides (1 tsp per side). Salt both sides with 1/4 tsp salt. Set on prepared baking sheet.

Roast in oven for 15-20 minutes or until the edges are lightly browned and shriveled. Place on a cutting board to cool. When cool enough to handle, slice into 1/2 inch thick slices. Serve on a large platter next to warmed tortillas.

To warm tortillas, place tortilla on a hot griddle or skillet over medium high heat, roughly 2 minutes per tortilla. The tortilla should be pliant and hot to the touch.

Tomato Salsa
3 ripe tomatoes, diced
1 yellow onion, diced
1/2 jalapeno pepper, thinly chopped
juice of 1 lime
1/2 tsp salt

Combine the ingredients above into a large bowl and toss. Set aside to marinate for 15 minutes before serving. I don't like cilantro, so I always served chopped cilantro on the side.

P.S. These are also fantastic with guacamole. Avocado makes anything taste better.

Sunday Afternoon Tomato and Mushroom Focaccia

Dear Devon,

I made this on a lazy Sunday. Lazy mainly because I was too engrossed in a book to think much about lunch. I needed something easy and self-reliant in the "throw it in the oven and forget about it until the timer rings" way. I had made a trip to the farmer's market and picked up a few luxuries like fresh tomatoes and mushrooms. In a matter of minutes, my lunch was baking away in the oven and I was back to my book.


I used a store-bought flatbread about an inch thick. I wanted a substantial enough crust to support my tasty toppings. The bread crisped up nicely in the oven and absorbed the tomato juices. A soft goat cheese acts as a binding agent, replacing tomato sauce. Roughly torn mushrooms finish off the dish. For added flavor, brush an herb and olive oil mixture over the bread before arranging your toppings. Herbacious olive oils are easy to make, chopped fresh herbs like parsley, dill, thyme or rosemary (in combination or individually) whisked with olive oil and perhaps some crushed garlic. This meal is about easy preparation and general convenience. I don't always have time or the energy to cook an elaborate dish, but I don't feel that those limitations should detract from having a healthy or yummy meal.

It was absolutely beautiful when it came out of the oven. The oozing red and green tomatoes added vibrant color. The deep brown mushrooms retained their shape nicely. I loved the pairing of the rustic torn mushrooms with the almost opaque sliced tomatoes.


Tomato and Mushroom Focaccia

large piece of flatbread
1/2 green tomato, sliced
1/2 red tomato, sliced
6 or 8 mushrooms, roughly torn or chopped
3 oz soft goat cheese
2 tbsp of olive oil

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place a large piece of baked flatbread on a baking sheet. Dot with half the goat cheese. Layer the tomatoes over the cheese. Sprinkle with chopped or torn mushrooms. Top with the remaining goat cheese. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt.

Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, until the bread is crisp and the mushrooms are cooked through. The goat cheese will brown slightly. Remove from the oven. Drizzle with a good olive oil and a pinch of black pepper. Slice into squares and serve.

Simple Yellow Squash and Mushroom Penne

Dear Devon,

Cooking in someone else's kitchen is always a challenge. When you walk in, you don't know what you'll find. The simplest dishes can seem overwhelming when you don't have your favorite knife or trusty pan. Best case scenario, the kitchen is better supplied than the corner restaurant, offering an army of pans, gadgets, utensils, spices and herbs, salts and oils. In my experience, these kitchens are rare birds. Most have the requisite skillet, pot, and baking tray with maybe a wooden spoon or a spatula or two. These are the situations that really test me. I have to adjust how I cook to a new environment, which leads to innovative uses of limited resources and sometimes absurd situations. I love the challenge!

For the past few weeks, I've been staying at a friend's apartment. Her place is nicely situated on the main drag of a bustling neighborhood in Brooklyn. The food culture is amazing and really accessible. I've taken to eating out a lot during my stay, but occasionally, I do fire up the stove. The kitchen is tucked into a tiny corner of the apartment. It contains the mandatory stove, sink, and fridge...but not much else. A cutting board takes up the entire counter space. The stove is possibly the smallest I've ever seen. And most amazingly, her microwave is a toaster too!! It toasts amazingly well for a two in one unit. At the moment, the biggest challenge is getting the pan on the stove. The burners are placed so close together that the pan actually straddles several burners. Fitting a pan and a pot on the stove is a tight squeeze. But somehow, I've managed to figure out a way to control the temperature and cook some pretty fantastic food.


I didn't want the first meal I prepared in this kitchen, other than cereal, to be too strenuous. This simple yellow squash and mushroom penne was the perfect place to start. Simple in its execution; a pretty basic recipe. It allowed me to get a feel for the kitchen- how to set myself up, the pitfalls of the over-sized pan, etc. I must admit, a small kitchen isn't that bad. I'm an arm's distance away from the sink and the stove. In one spot, I can chop onions, wash squash, and saute mushrooms.

I didn't really think too much about this dish before I made it. It came together pretty organically. Both the squash and mushrooms looked nice at the store, so I bought them without any real intentions. I love mushrooms sauteed in a bit of butter and sprinkled with salt. The mushrooms exude a wonderful earthy flavor and become almost meat-like. The yellow squash with its delicate flavor and light texture pairs nicely with the dark tones of the mushroom. I browned both in melted butter to give them a nuttiness and a bit of color. I finished off the pasta with a light sauce made simply by deglazing the pan with a bit of red wine. Parsley lends a bit of freshness and olive oil for richness.

I suppose, it really isn't about how good your pans are or the size of your kitchen. In the end, fresh ingredients, a bit of organization, and basic cooking techniques can take you a long way.

Yellow Squash and Mushroom Penne
serves 2

two small yellow squash, sliced
5 oz. small mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/4 c. white onion, chopped
1 tbsp butter
1/3 cup parsley, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup red wine
1/2 cup pasta water
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp olive oil
penne

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add enough penne for two servings.

In a large skillet, melt butter. Gently cook the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the squash and mushrooms. Spread out the mushrooms and squash into a single layer. Cook over a medium low flame, browning the squash and mushrooms on both sides. Sprinkle liberally with salt and toss. Add wine and pasta water to the skillet. Reduce the liquid until about half. Add cooked pasta, olive oil, and chopped parsley. Toss to distribute evenly.