Japanese Style Cabbage Pancakes

Dear Devon,

I woke up this morning and realized that I won’t be returning to New York for a long time. I ran to an Asian grocery store because I can’t stand being without kimchi any longer. Three weeks into my stay and I would kill for a Q-tip and a pork laden, umami rich, generously scallioned, steaming bowl of ramen! You would think in a country where pork is the national food, a veritable mascot, ramen would quickly follow. And yes, there are Asian people here. I just don’t know what they are eating or more importantly, where.

I suppose I should be grateful that there is an Asian grocery nearby. In my present state of Asian food withdrawal, this fetid garage that sells Asian-made products was a beacon to a weary sailor. I already commented on the distinctive smells of Barcelona, but this grocery store brings the concept of malodorous stink to an Olympic level. My sense of smell has never been better tested than in the streets and in this case Asian markets of Barcelona. Let’s put it this way, the smell made the fishmongers’ stalls in New York Chinatown smell like the florist.

If that wasn’t enough, I experienced the greatest shock of my entire life in this shop. With my nerves strengthened by the plum sauce in my hand and the friendly company of dried ramen and pho, I approached a shopkeeper to inquire about other necessities. She looked Asian, so I addressed her in Cantonese. She shot me the blank look of incomprehension. My desire to guzzle down an entire bottle of sweet soy milk encouraged me to question her again, this time in Mandarin. Immediately, the same look of utter confusion! I don’t give any pretensions toward fluency in either Cantonese or Mandarin, but I certainly know how to ask, “Where is the soy milk?” Now, I’m sure that the look of incomprehension was on my face. I stumbled to the cashier and hardly notice as he rang up a bottle of soy sauce at 6 euros ($10), the second greatest shock of my life. And no, it’s not the fancy organic kind, it’s not even low sodium (the store doesn’t even carry it).

On a happier note, I did manage to track down my beloved Korean red chili paste at a food stall at the Boqueria market off La Rambla, a modest 2.50 euros. She did not have in stock the bright red chili flakes, but promised to set some aside for me the next week. My plan is to make kimchi. I half dread the visit to the market to inquire about Napa cabbage. Imagine explaining that in Spanish. Do they even know where Napa is? Not to mention, every time I go the market, I leave with my nerves completely shot and the back of my shirt soaked with sweat. The vendors are all extremely friendly. It’s me, I’m extremely anxious, not to mention lost in the metric system (1/2 kilo of ham = about 1 pound, which is now cooling in my fridge). If a kilo sounds like a lot, ½ a kilo is still more than I would probably ever buy at home.

How many import laws would be violated if you FedExed me a bowl of Momofuku ramen and pork belly buns?


Japanese Style Cabbage Pancakes
(makes four pancakes)

1 cup flour
1 cup water
1 tbsp salt
1 egg
¼ head of cabbage, shredded
½ small onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
1 hot pepper, diced

Spicy Red Pepper Sauce
(makes about 1 cup)

2 tbsp Korean red pepper paste
2 tbsp plum sauce
2 ½ tbsp soy sauce
1 ½ tbsp brown sugar
1 ½ tbsp corn oil
½ tsp sesame oil

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, water, egg, and salt. Carbonated water can be substituted for still water. It gives the pancakes an extra bit of lift, but is by no means necessary. Allow batter to rest for about 15 minutes before using.

Shred cabbage, thinly slice onions, garlic, and hot pepper. Make four separate piles for the cabbage, onions, garlic, and hot pepper. Toss together a quarter of each pile into a separate mixing bowl. This insures an even distribution of each ingredient per pancake.

Bring a medium sized skillet to medium high heat. Add a drop of oil about the size of two quarters into the hot skillet. To the hot oil, add the cabbage and onion mixture. Gently fry for a minute or two, just to get some nice color. Splash in about a quarter cup of water. The water creates a steaming affect and slows down the cooking process. It is very easy to burn the cabbage. When the water has just about evaporated and the cabbage is about transparent, pour in a large ladleful of batter. Using a wooden spatula, fold the batter on to the cabbage to make a circular pancake. Add a drop more oil. When the edges begin to brown and bubble, flip the pancake. Add a bit more oil as needed. The pancake is done when both sides are nicely browned and the pancake has a solid feel.

Serve with a spicy red pepper sauce. Combine the ingredients listed above in a large mixing bowl. Mix together thoroughly. Adjust seasonings to your taste. I prefer my sauce slightly sweet. The sauce is greatly enhanced with the addition of toasted sesame seeds and/or a generous drop of honey.

Spicy Red Snapper

Dear Devon,

Since resolving to eat more fish, I have collected several fish recipes that I'm dying to try out. This recipe for spicy red snapper was at the top of the list. It came from my latest cookbook obsession, the Korean Table. Sadly, NYPL recalled the book, and I must content myself with photocopies...at least, until my birthday. Lucky for me, my birthday is in a few weeks.

A month ago, I made a huge batch of the red pepper paste used in Korean kimchi. Other than as a spicy topping, I thought I would have limited use for the sauce. However, I am pleasantly surprised to find that the 16 ounce jar of paste is steadily diminishing. When whipping something together, I find myself reaching into the fridge for that jar. I like the convenience of the paste for marinades and the spicy and sweet notes it adds to any dish. It has become an absolute staple.

The best part is this dish requires two ingredients: 1) red snapper 2) red pepper paste. Smother the fish with red pepper paste and roast in the oven. It couldn't be easier. The level of spiciness can be adjusted by adding less or more of the paste. If the paste is too spicy, dilute with a bit of water or a sprinkle of lemon juice.

My red snapper reminded me more of Sichuanese fried fish, only without the dancing pepper sensation. The fleshy snapper had a nice firm consistency, giving weight to the spicy sauce. I sprinkled fresh lemon juice over the fish to cut some of the spice and bring the flavor of the fish and pepper together. The dish was comfortably spicy, enough to give a consistent burn on the lips but mild enough to be calmed with water and a bowl of vinegary sushi rice. A crisp and spicy cucumber and seaweed salad balanced the meal, providing some freshness and a range of flavors.


Spicy Red Snapper
from At the Korean Table by Taekyung Chung and Debra Samuels

1 whole red snapper (roughly 1 pound)
salt
4 tbsp seasoned red pepper paste (see post from March 10 , 2010)
2 scallions chopped
1/2 lemon, juiced
1 tbsp sesame oil

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking tray with foil.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together red pepper paste, sesame oil, scallions and lemon juice.

Wash fish and check for scales. With a sharp knife, make several incisions into the flesh of the fish on both sides. Salt the fish all over and inside the cavity. Place fish on baking sheet. Bake for about 8 minutes, until firm to the touch. Remove from the oven. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees. Spread the red pepper mixture all over the fish on both sides. Return to oven. Cook for an additional 5-7 minutes. To check for doneness, insert a knife in the thickest part of the fish. The flesh should be opaque and flaky. Cooking time for the fish will vary depending on the thickness of the fish and the calibration of your oven.

Variety is the Spice of Life

Dear Devon,

The Korean Table: From Barbecue to Bibimbap 100 Easy-To-Prepare Recipes, by Debra Samuels and Taekyung Chung, is my latest inspiration. I am a big fan of Korean food with its numerous sauces, tiny dishes of spicy kimchi, and fragrant meats. But I always thought this was food I would order, not prepare in my own kitchen. Late night TV scanning found me watching a special on Korean food. The show demonstrated several easy recipes and convinced me that what I ate at the restaurant was not beyond my capacity. The next day, I ordered The Korean Table from NYPL.

I have been glued to its pages for weeks, taking the book to bed with me to read just before I turn out the lights. The photographs are nicely shot and the writing is very clear and thorough. I especially like the introductory section where the authors systematically explain the many ingredients often used in Korean cooking and where to find them (very useful for a novice). Korean food is based on several core sauces which are used in soups, dipping sauces, marinades, dressing, and pickling. Spending an afternoon mixing up a couple of these sauces will yield many tasty meals.


To start off, I chose what seemed to be the most frequently used sauce, a seasoned red pepper paste. I made a big batch and stored the leftovers in a glass jar in the fridge. From this one sauce, I prepared three small dishes: seasoned grilled eggplant, spicy steamed tofu, and grilled scallions.

I was really pleased with how the dishes turned out. I took two Japanese eggplants, sliced them on a bias, and grilled them. Grilling the eggplant gives it a nice smoky flavor, providing a dark contrast to the tangy and spicy red pepper sauce. Mixing in the sauce while the eggplant is still warm will help to deepen the flavor. Korean tofu is unique for its dense texture and intense bean flavor. I often prefer it to the watery, loose, and light tofu from Chinese cooking. I found an organic tofu at the local market that has many of the same qualities as the Korean stuff, and used it in my next dish. I steamed the tofu using a rice cooker while I prepared a soy sauce based dressing. I wanted to create several dishes that varied in flavor, texture, and spiciness. So, I chose a soy sauce based dressing. The sauce is sweeter and lighter than its red pepper counterpart. One of my all time favorites are long shoots of grilled scallions. They are sweet and moist, crunchy and with that wonderful onion spiciness. I didn't want to destroy the delicate flavor of the scallions, so I lightly drizzled a tsp of the red pepper paste over the softened shoots. The meal was completed with steamed white rice and a glass of wine, which I might add, did not go well with the meal: Next time I'll reach for a beer.


Seasoned Red Pepper Paste (from The Korean Table)
Makes approximately 2 cups
1/2 cup Korean coarse red pepper flake
1 cup Korean red pepper paste
4 tbsp garlic paste, to make this smash peeled garlic cloves in a mortar and pestle
1 tbsp grated ginger
3/4 tbsp oyster sauce
4 tbsp soy sauce
4 tbsp light brown sugar
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
(will last up to 2 months in the fridge)

In a large bowl, whisk together Korean red pepper flakes, Korean red pepper paste, garlic paste. grated ginger, oyster sauce, soy sauce, light brown sugar and lemon juice. Transfer to a jar and store in the fridge. Use as needed. Surprisingly, the paste isn't as spicy as it sounds. I suggest tasting it before mixing into any of the sauces. As always, adjust the spiciness to your desired level.

Grilled Eggplant
2 Japanese eggplant, sliced
3/4 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 1/2 tbsp seasoned red pepper paste
1 tbsp olive oil

Heat up a large grill pan. Lightly oil. Slice eggplant on a bias. Lay flat on the grill and leave undisturbed to cook. Flip only once to preserve sharp grill lines. The combined cooking time should be 12-15 minutes. Whisk together sesame oil, rice wine vinegar, brown sugar, seasoned red pepper paste (from above), and olive oil. Taste and adjust according to your desired level of spiciness. I tend to think sesame oil is a bit overpowering, so I reduced the amount. Add in grilled eggplant, still hot, and toss to evenly coat each slice.


Steamed Tofu
1 pound of firm tofu
2 tbsp brown sugar
4 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp grated ginger
1 tsp red pepper paste
dash sesame seeds
1 scallion, chopped

Over a large pot of boiling water or with a rice cooker, steam a large block of firm tofu. Whisk together brown sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, red pepper flakes, 1/2 tsp rated ginger, and 1 tsp red pepper paste. Add a dash of roasted sesame seeds and one chopped scallion. Toss in steamed tofu to evenly coat.

Grilled Scallions
3 scallions

Clean scallions. Remove the roots and the dark green parts. Brush with a bit of corn oil. Heat grill pan. When pan is nice and hot, lay down scallions. Cook until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Drizzle with 1/2 tsp seasoned red pepper paste.