Pork Belly Ssam

Dear Michelle,

Remember when I told you about Jeff getting me the Momofuku cookbook? Well, it's quickly become one of my go-to cookbooks when I'm looking for something exciting to make; though I was already cooking some Asian food before I had the cookbook, this opened up so many possibilities for me. Chang is a gifted man, both in cooking and in translating the experience and technique for the home chef. You can feel his love of food and experimentation, and his commitment to making his food the best it can be of what it is when you read the book. The food is not about mastering the technical difficulty, like it seems to be with some chefs, but is rather all about the end product.

We went to the noodle bar recently, and found the menu to be cheaper, the portions larger than at ssam bar, and the atmosphere less hip (fewer people, though we were there early, and quieter music), which is nice when what you really want to do is focus on the food. We had been given a gift certificate for a wedding present; our friends know us well. The food was phenomenal, the experience memorable.

We started with the pork buns, Jeff let me get the foie gras with celery root puree and pineapple compote (this was huge, at least 5x2 inches- I'd have been happy with that for an entree), then came bok choy in pork broth, and beef brisket and pork ramen for mains, all followed by sour cherry and olive oil twist soft serve. It was an epic dinner, perfectly prepared, and afterwards we stumbled out into still-bright Manhattan clutching our bellies and wishing we'd ordered less, but instead come back a second time (there was money still left over!). When food is that good, it's hard to stop.


The first thing we made from Chang's cookbook was pork belly ssam, which won me over immediately. You know that secret weapon dinner we who cook all have? The one you make when someone new is coming over, which seems elaborate and fancy but is really easy to put together and always good? This is all that, and can be mostly made ahead of time. It will sound like a lot; but is not much more work than your average dinner of meat with sauce, a starch and a vegetable.

We've made the ssam several times by now, the most recent of which when our friend Kate was in town this April. It was just getting really warm out, and we had the windows open to the breeze outside, a vase of large droopy tulips on the table, and way too much food for three people. A few photos of that spring evening are here.



The meal was, as it always is, amazing. The crispy on the outside and tender on the inside meat is run through with veins of fat, the good melty kind, not the chewy greasy kind. This rich piece of carnivore's delight nestles into miso-butter rice, tart and flavorful, and is covered with one or both of two sauces, all contained in a crispy piece of lettuce that cuts the richness a little.



Ginger scallion sauce is sharp with its namesakes, but with an unexpected depth of flavor. Make double the amount; you'll use it the next day, and the next. The other sauce is a mayonnaise based sauce, creamy and tart, crunchy with pickles and mustard seeds (not pictured, I omitted it for this dinner as I was the only one who liked mayonnaise). It's not quite as versatile as ginger-scallion sauce, but it's worth making. The first time I made this, for about eight people, all of it was gone by the end.


Chang specifies skin-off pork belly in his recipe, but I like to leave the skin on; it puffs up into crunchy, crispy deliciousness. It surprised me, but everyone who has been there when I've made this has tried the skin, and most came back for more. It's like a built-in hors d'oeuvre.



Pork Belly Ssam

All recipes from Momofuku by David Chang and Peter Meehan. Words are paraphrased, changes have been noted.

pork belly
several heads of Bibb lettuce, washed and separated
miso-butter rice
ginger scallion sauce
mustard seed sauce
sriracha sauce

Put everything inside lettuce and wrap up. Repeat until full.



Pork Belly

3-lb slab skinless (unless you want the cracklin's, and you do) pork belly
1/3 c kosher salt
1/3 c sugar

1. Mix salt and sugar in a small bowl, then rub all over meat, discarding extra. Put meat in a snugly-fitted oven-safe dish. Cover with plastic wrap and put into fridge at least 6 hours, up to 24. (If you are at the butcher's, thinking, "what will I make for dinner tonight?", and you find yourself inspired to make this (do it!), but despair of not having 6 hours for this step, just give it as long as you can. I'm sure it makes a difference and all that, but I say it's better to have pork belly without this step than not at all if that's what it comes down to)

2. Heat oven to 450F

3. Discard any liquid, put belly in oven, and cook for 1 hour, basting with rendered fat halfway, until it is golden-brown.

4. Reduce temperature to 250, and cook for about an additional 30m. The meat should be a little firm, not quite jiggly. Remove pan from oven, decant fat and meat juices, let separate, and refrigerate separately (if you like; fat is well, fat, and can be used to saute or whatever, and juices, which will gel, can be stirred into things to add some richness). Allow to cool a little.

5. When cool enough to handle, wrap belly in foil and refrigerate until chilled and firm. (Can be dispensed with if you have hungry people waiting, which I always have had, but it slices more cleanly if cold). If you'd left the skin on, you can crack into that bubble with a knife now (so satisfying, like breaking into a creme brulee), and munch on the pieces. If some of it is not quite crisp, pull it/cut it off of the meat and put it back into the oven for a few minutes.

6. Light grill/ heat grill pan or skillet. Cut belly into 1/2 inch slices, and grill till browned and crispy on one side (I've always missed that part and done both sides, but I think this way would be better)



Miso-Butter Rice

2 c sushi rice
miso butter (linked below)
sushi vinegar (rice wine vinegar mixed with salt and sugar)

Make 2 c sushi rice according to directions. Stir in miso butter to taste (we'd probably use a good 4-6 T), and sushi vinegar to taste.


Ginger Scallion Sauce

1 1/2 c thinly sliced scallion (Chang calls for 2 1/2 c scallion, but I like more liquid in my sauce)
1/2 c finely minced ginger
1/4 c grapeseed, or other neutral oil
1T sesame oil (Chang does not call for this, but I think it's a nice touch)
1 1/2 t light soy sauce (sometimes I increase this, to taste)
2 T sushi vinegar (Chang uses 3/4 t sherry vinegar)
3/4 t kosher salt

Combine all in a bowl. Let sit 20 minutes if you have time. Use leftovers on noodles; this is what it is for, but we use it on rice, noodles, ssam, to dip dumplings into, it's good on pretty much anything. I don't even measure any more but eye-ball all ingredients and it is ALWAYS good. This is not for the pork belly, per se, but Jeff does not like mayonnaise (it's a burden, but I put up with it because I love him), so he asked me to try this sauce instead and he was so right.


Mustard Seed Sauce

6T pickled mustard seed (see next recipe. Can also use just regular mustard seeds, if you are too lazy to pickle them. I was the first time.)
3T Dijon mustard
1T Chinese hot mustard (I used more Dijon, as I didn't think to get this, though I'm sure it makes it better)
3T mayonnaise
3 T thinly sliced scallion
3 T diced cucumber
salt and pepper

Combine all in bowl, use within a couple of days, store refrigerated. Very tasty.


Pickled Mustard Seeds

1 c yellow mustard seeds
1 1/2 c water
1 1/2 c rice wine vinegar
1/2 c sugar
1 T kosher salt

The Momofuku Slow-Poached Egg with Miso Butter

Dear Michelle,

Jeff got me the Momofuku cookbook for Christmas. Or, rather, Jeff got us the Momofuku cookbook for Christmas; he knew what would happen if he got me that book. We've been to one of the three in the family of restaurants only once, and it was transcendent experience, made even better by the company of good friends and my first taste of nigori sake. It was enough to convince me that I wanted to own that cookbook when I heard it was coming out.

So far, we have made pork belly ssam twice, sour cream ice cream once, and the scallion ginger sauce several times; all very very good, and all things we will make again. And, of course, there is the slow-poached egg. As you read on, at some point you will wonder, "Is it really worth taking the time to do this?" Stay with me. It is.

For anyone who likes eggs, and by that I mean likes eggs enough that you like the white set just so and the yolk just runny enough, you know how difficult achieving this consistently can be. I've been making sunny-side up eggs for years, and I still mess them up sometimes, and EVERY time I do this I feel like my breakfast has been ruined. Almost worse than a set yolk is a not-quite-cooked-enough white. So, what if I told you that, for about an hour's worth of on-again off-again attention, you could have perfect eggs for a whole week?

These eggs are so perfect because they are cooked in what is essentially a sous-vide method. True, there is no vacuum packing, and no wondering if it is really ok to cook your food in plastic, but the principle is there; submerge something self-contained in hot, circulating water set to a particular temperature that perfectly cooks what is inside, and what you end up with will be neither over-, nor under-cooked. For a little color and flavor, you then sear quickly and serve.

The result is an egg that has a creamy yolk and a white that is just on the right side of done, gelled on the line between opaque and translucent. The mouth-feel of the egg is luscious, and is hands down the best prepared egg I have ever had.

Of course, it doesn't hurt to lightly fry the egg in pork fat, and slide it down onto a piece of good bread smeared with miso butter (miso is fermented soybean paste, available in asian markets, and probably most grocery stores). Miso butter, like this, seems to be an invention of Chang's, and a very good one. It's a salty-umami flavor sucker punch that hits right on the back of your tongue, like really good bacon does. And, like bacon, it is perfect with an egg.


I haven't even gotten to the best part about this egg ( I know, give it a rest, right?), which is that you can make a bunch, chill them, and put them in the fridge for later use. Breakfast? Easier and quicker than frying a raw egg! Lunch? Soba noodles with some sort of vegetable, mixed with miso butter and an egg on top! Variations? pile steamed greens on your toast, or, like I did this morning, wrap two of these little guys in some salami (yeah, that's right, salami. But not the kind you're thinking, unless you are lucky enough to get it from the same butcher I do. I could devote a whole post to this stuff. Or, if I was inclined to do such things, write a poem), and nestle the whole mess down onto miso-buttered toast. Heaven! (Mom, if you're reading this, I promise I had an orange afterwards)

Before I start the how-to, let me recommend again the Momofuku cookbook. If the above wasn't enough to convince you, please trust me that it's worth the $40. That's not even enough to pay for dinner at one of Chang's restaurants. The recipes are very accessible, and range from complicated to easy. I feel like I could someday make the pig's head torchons, but for now I'll stick with the pork buns. Plus the writing is good, and the photos well done. Jeff notes that this is not a cookbook for the beginning cook; I'm not sure I agree, but that's only conditional on the enthusiasm of said cook. I do know that you will be seeing a lot on here that is directly from/ inspired by this cookbook.


Slow-Poached Egg from Momofuku by David Chang and Peter Meehan, pg 52

Notes: I've used a smaller pot for these, but this last time used my Le Creuset dutch oven. Go bigger. The more water, the less volatile the temperature, the less you need to hover and can do more interesting things. Have cold water handy, and if you just have a smaller pot, ice cubes. Use a candy thermometer. They are more accurate than meat thermometers, not too expensive, and more useful than you'd think. Especially if you make these eggs as often as I do. Get REALLY good eggs; what you end up with will reflect what you start out with. The best eggs, by far, are home or small-farm raised eggs. If the yolk is yellow instead of orange, you need to find better eggs. You discard a part of the white that doesn't firm; this is about 1/4-1/3 of it. Therefore, you might want two eggs where before you'd eat one.


Fit 1 large pot with steamer basket or just something to keep the eggs suspended in water. Fill enough to cover eggs plus some (but not full; you want room to add cold water later for temp. control), and set on stove. Secure candy thermometer so that tip is suspended in water; you will leave it here. Heat over medium low to 140-145 degrees F. Add eggs. When temperature comes back to 140-145F, start timer for 40-45 minutes. I usually do 45, because I like them a little more done. Check water regularly; keeping it in this temperature range is key. If the temp is creeping up to 145, add a little cold water/ice to bring it back down. Keep the heat as low as possible, and add cold water in small increments. With the large pot, I checked about every 10 minutes, but start off with 5 till you can gauge how quickly the temperature changes. When timer goes off, chill in ice bath. Refrigerate or use.


While eggs are cooking, make miso butter. I like about half butter to half miso; Chang uses 1/2 c miso with 5T butter. I find that to be a little too salty for my taste, especially considering the amount that I use. However, in 1-1 quantity, the miso butter will become hard when refrigerated. Play around with it and see what suits you. Different brands will also taste different. This was my first foray into cooking with miso, so I regret that I cannot specify a preferred brand.


To make: mix softened butter with white miso until creamy. Make extra. Spread on toast, to be ready for the egg. (See 2nd photo in main body of writing for finished miso butter)

Heat a frying pan till hot, then add a small amount of fat of your choice. While pan heats, crack egg into a bowl, and discard thin white (I crack the eggs into my hand and the loose white falls away).



When fat shimmers, add egg(s). Fry till just colored on each side; you are adding flavor and just barely firming the egg, not trying to cook it through. Eat immediately. Do the same if egg comes out of the fridge; give it a touch longer to warm through. Chang uses the eggs, not fried, in soup as well, and recommends warming them under very hot tap water for a minute.