Kale and Avocado Salad

Dear Devon,

Ever since trying kale and avocado salad at the uptown Whole Foods, I've been obsessed with this salad. I immediately bought the requisite ingredients, and began tinkering in the kitchen. My first two attempts were good, but I knew I could improve it. Two weeks later, I have what I think is a pretty darn good salad. Since the salad consists of only a few ingredients with minimal seasoning, fresh, high-quality vegetables are a must. Try to pick kale and avocados at the peak of ripeness. Avoid wilted leaves, limp stalks, and bruised fruits. Limp greens are not appetizing.


Some diners might object to the coarse and chewy texture of raw kale. I find that once you get over the sense that you are a horse chewing on straw, it's not so bad. To avoid this unsavory texture, allow the kale to marinate in the dressing for about 20 minutes before serving. The citrus juices will break down the tough fibers of the kale, softening the leaves. Stalks with smaller leaves yield a tenderer bite. The nutritional benefits of kale are numerous, running the gamut from lowering your risk for certain types of cancer to preventing rheumatoid arthritis or cataract disease. These health benefits are pretty convincing, but in the end, I eat kale mainly because I love the taste.

Blood oranges are a recent, happy discovery. I have eaten them before, but only in Europe. I don't often see them here in the States, so when I saw some plump blood oranges at the market, I grabbed them. Unfortunately, I don't think the season for blood oranges is quite here. The oranges brightened the flavors and freshened the salad significantly, but they weren't as juicy as they will probably be later in the summer. Nonetheless, I would still advise using some sort of citrus fruit, whether it be pink grapefruit, tangerine, or orange. The citrus brings nice color to the plate and when mixed with a lime juice based dressing, produces an unusual flavor, light with a sweet tang.

I like to segment my oranges directly over the salad bowl so that I can collect all the precious juice. After removing all the segments, I give the pulpy membranes a hearty squeeze, to extract every last drop. On top of the fresh juice, a squeeze of lime, olive oil, sesame oil, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Kale and avocado are added directly to the serving bowl and gently tossed. Be careful not to bruise the avocado. While the dressing sets, I cut up some bread and pass out napkins. Allowing the salad to rest is important. It helps break down the leaves while also encourages the avocado to melt into the dressing. The end result is a subtle citrus-avocado infused dressing, studded with vibrant red-orange fruit, dark green kale, and chunky avocado bits. When I look at my salad, I think that summer must be calling.

Kale and Avocado Salad
serves 2

4 stalks fresh kale
1 avocado
1 blood red orange
3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp sesame oil
juice of 1/2 lime
large pinch of salt

Segment one blood orange over your serving bowl. To segment, remove the top and bottom of the orange. With the orange sitting upright on its cut end, run the edge of the knife down the length of the orange to remove the rind and white pith. Holding the orange in the palm of your hand, run the edge of your knife in between the white membranes. What should emerge is a clean orange slice, free of any white pith or rind. Give the resulting membranes a hard squeeze. Add the juice of half a lime. Whisk in sesame oil, olive oil, and a large pinch of salt and pepper.

Thoroughly wash kale leaves. Sometimes dirt and mud cling to the leaves and stalks. Don't want that in your salad. Remove the leaves from the stalks and cut into 1 1/2 inch wide strips. Cube avocado. Add the kale, cubed avocado, and segmented oranges into the serving bowl. Gently toss with a large wooden spoon. Set aside for 20 minutes before serving.

Pasta Fagioli

Dear Devon,

I have way too much stuff! Over the past two weeks, I have gradually and awkwardly schlepped my books, furniture, cooking implements, clothes, and random junk into my new apartment. The move is nearing its final stages. Only the piano remains. I'm not foolhardy enough to try moving that by myself. Fear and a flight of stairs quickly extinguished thrift.

Given my increased level of physical exertion, I turned to black eyed peas as a good source of nutrients. I intended to cook enough for two or three servings, but accidentally dumped the entire one-pound bag into the pot. C’est la vie! My folly is your windfall, as you will discover the charms and versatility of the black eyed pea!

There is a lot written about how to cook dried beans. After trying various methods, I still don’t know which is the best. Here’s what I did:
Fill a large pot with water. Add one pound black eyed peas. Throw in a bay leaf. Gradually bring to a boil. Simmer on low heat for 1 ½ to 2 hours, or until the beans are tender. Drain and cool. Store in large containers.

Beans = pasta fagioli. The recipe is flexible and works with practically any type of bean: white beans, kidney beans, and even lentils. Use whatever greens you have in the fridge. I prepare this with kale, broccoli rabe, spinach, and sometimes beet tops. Canned beans can be substituted for quicker and easier cooking. My pasta of choice is large shells. I love the surprise of the smooth, salty bean nestled in the starchy shell. I haven't had time to stock up the pantry, so this time I used penne. It is a good substitute and a staple in my cupboard.


I had never used black eyed peas in this recipe before. I was surprised at the texture of the bean, which was a bit denser, not as smooth as the white beans I had used in the past. I needed a green that could easily balance the heartier texture of the black eyed pea. Kale, with its slight tang and darker flavoring, seemed like a good counterpart. I found that purple kale worked even better than green in this instance, making the dish more vibrant both in color and flavor. I finished it off with a dash of red chili flakes and a pat of butter for richness.

Definitely add this to your list of standing recipes. It is too yummy to set aside. Forkfuls of beans, pasta, and kale coated with a garlic, butter, and chili flake...is there anything better?

Pasta Fagioli
Serves 4

1 strip of bacon, chopped
2 shallots, sliced
2 cloves of garlic, smashed and sliced
half bunch of kale
½ cup chicken broth or water
pinch of red chili flake
1 cup black eyed peas, pre-cooked
pasta (preferably shells)
1 tbsp butter

Bring to boil one large pot of salted water. Add enough pasta for four servings.

In a large sauté pan, cook bacon. Drain off all but 1 tbsp of fat and add a tablespoon of oil. Roughly chop shallots. Smash garlic cloves and chop. Add onions and garlic to hot oil. Gently sauté over medium heat until slightly translucent. Wash kale thoroughly--I often find pockets of dirt and encrusted mud on the leaves. Remove the thick, fibrous stalk. Chop into nice 1 ½ inch pieces. Add to the sauté pan. When the kale heats through, about 5 minutes, pour in chicken broth. Cook over medium low heat for about 10 minutes. Salt and throw in a pinch of chili flake. Mix in cooked black eyed peas. Cook until beans are heated through. Toss in cooked pasta. Taste for salt. Finish with butter.

The Best Part of the Chicken with Braised Radish and Kale

Dear Devon,

Thanks for introducing me to kale. No longer will I pass up kale on menus or at the market. Since first eating it at your house, I can't get enough. I hope that's not a reflection of a poor iron count in my body! I've been reading up on the ways to prepare kale: soups, pastas, and side dishes. I will be sharing my discoveries with you.




A few months ago, I bought my first bunch of radishes and braised them in butter. The results were pretty fantastic. Since then, I've incorporated radishes into my diet, in both main courses and side dishes. The bright green, tangy kale seemed a likely companion to butter braised radishes. I started by melting a good lump of butter in a hot skillet and tossing in my radishes. I turn the flame down to medium-low / low. The slow cooking gives the radishes a nicely browned exterior but still maintains the slight crunch and really brings out their wonderful sweetness. After removing the stalks, I chop the kale into 2-inch pieces and wash. The kale is then added to the radishes and liberally salted. Kale can be a bit fibrous, so I poached the vegetables in a mixture of 1/2 cup of water and 1/4 cup of red wine. I finished my side dish with a sprinkle of lime juice.


A wonderful side dish calls out for a piece of fantastic meat. A beautifully carmelized thick cut pork chop or a fatty piece of prime rib would be great pairings. I opted for juicy roast chicken. For me, roast chicken is one of the easiest and most comforting meals to make. In my family, we fight over the dark meat; the white meat is eaten at room temperature or more likely is secreted away in tomorrow night's dinner. To avoid this, I roast only chicken thighs and legs. Though it doesn't look as impressive as beautifully roast whole chicken, roasting select parts allows everyone at the table an equal chance at the choice pieces.


Pick chicken with the skin on--it will insure juiciness. Once, when I wanted to cook a bit healthier, I tried roasting skinless chicken. I'm sure you can imagine how that turned out. Rub meat with olive oil, salt and pepper and toss in the oven. For added tastiness, I like to lay the chicken over a bed of onion rings (sometimes I use fennel fronds, rosemary sprigs, or lemon). This infuses flavor into the meat and gives the skin a nice crispness. Because the process is so easy, I try to roast enough chicken to last about three meals (including dinner). With the leftover chicken, I cut the meat off the bone and shred. Later in the week, I use it for chicken salads, tacos, or fried rice. It's a nice time saving solution.

Making pies tomorrow for the big feast. Promise to write about it soon!! Send my greetings to your parents.

Love love

M

Roast Chicken with Braised Radish and Kale
serves 2

2 chicken legs with skin
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 onion, sliced into rings
salt
pepper

2 cups chopped kale
5 large radishes
1 clove of garlic, smashed
1 tbsp butter
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup red wine
sprinkle of lime juice

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place the onions rings on the pan in a single layer. Remove chicken from packaging. Pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle each chicken leg with one tablespoon of olive oil. Generously salt and pepper on all sides. Roast in the oven for about 30 minutes. The chicken is done when the skin is nicely browned and crisp and the juices run clear when the meat is pierced with a fork.

In a large skillet, melt the butter. Clean radishes. Remove the roots and the stems. Cut into sixths or quarters, depending on size. For even cooking, cut radishes into similar sized pieces. Add radishes to melted butter and cook over a medium-low / low flame. After about five minutes, add the smashed garlic. Salt. Slowly braise the radishes until nicely golden on all sides, about 10 additional minutes. Prepare the kale by removing the hard stems. Save the stems for stock. Chop the leaves into 2-inch pieces. Add chopped kale to the skillet with radishes. Gently saute kale. Salt. Add 1/2 cup water and 1/4 cup red wine. Cover and steam for about 5-7 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Taste for seasoning. The radishes are done when they can be easily pierced with a fork. The kale should still have some crunch and retain its bright green color. Sprinkle with lime juice to taste.