Aromatic Purple PlumSalad

Dear Devon,

Does fruit salad need a recipe? Certain combinations go extremely well together: Who would turn down strawberries and cantaloupe, or blackberries and peaches? Fresh and ripe, they are great combinations. But often, fruit salad collapses into browned and mushy fruit in a bowl. Peaches, strawberries, and bananas bruise easily, and on a sunny day, the fruit begins to macerate, great for jams but not ideal for fruit salad. For these reasons, I usually avoid making fruit salads.

Before leaving for Barcelona, I spent my last weekend wandering around Williamsburg. A friend brought me to Radish on Bedford Ave. The quaint shop is styled after an oldtime general store, decorated with eccentric hand-painted chalkboards and a beautiful antique lead-lined fridge. Radish pushes the phrase “take out” way beyond pizza, falafal pitas, or supermarket sushi. It’s real food, cooked using locally grown ingredients. Dishes are kept warm in stylish Staub cocottes and set beside gleaming white trays of savory side dishes. Everything looked absolutely delicious, but alas, we had just stuffed ourselves silly at Fada.



A fruit salad marked as “purple apricot, red onion, and mint” intrigued me. My experience with purple apricots is extremely limited, or rather, nonexistent. I have never seen a purple apricot, so I’m not even sure that’s what they really were. At first glance, they looked like plums. Either way, I was taken with the idea of adding spicy red onion to a sweet fruit salad. I went to the market that afternoon to try it for myself.

Radish was right. Purple onion mixed with fruit is an inspired combination. The flavor is a bit unfamiliar, but definitely not disgusting or off-putting. I sliced fresh purple plums into big wedges and added halved figs. Next came the onion, in thin slivers, opaque, crisp, and fragrant. The salad was carefully tossed with a wooden spoon, gentle on the delicate fruit. The final touch was a bit of aromatic: Lemon zest, mint, or rosemary, on other occasions.


The final salad smells spicy and flowery. It looks amazing with tiny ribbons of red onion settling onto the juicy wedges of plum and plump figs. This salad is about contrasts: Spicy, crisp raw bit of red onion paired with sweet, tangy plums and the grittiness of fig.

Don’t judge this salad until you’ve tasted it. It does require a bit of faith. Pairing red onion with plums and figs is not typical, but I guarantee that it will change how you think about the fruit salad.


Aromatic Purple Plum Salad
(makes 2 servings)

1 large purple skinned plum, sliced
4 figs, halved
2 sprigs rosemary, chopped (about ½ tsp)
1 tbsp red onion, thinly sliced

Wash figs and plums. Dry thoroughly. Cut plums into wedges (a large plum can give you 12 wedges). Halve figs. Store in a large bowl and set aside. Using a very sharp knife, cut paper-thin slices from a medium-sized red onion. Remove leaves from rosemary sprigs and finely chop. Sprinkle fruit with red onion and rosemary. With a large wooden spoon, gently mix the salad. Set aside for 5-10 minutes to allow the flavors to set.

The Best Part of the Chicken with Braised Radish and Kale

Dear Devon,

Thanks for introducing me to kale. No longer will I pass up kale on menus or at the market. Since first eating it at your house, I can't get enough. I hope that's not a reflection of a poor iron count in my body! I've been reading up on the ways to prepare kale: soups, pastas, and side dishes. I will be sharing my discoveries with you.




A few months ago, I bought my first bunch of radishes and braised them in butter. The results were pretty fantastic. Since then, I've incorporated radishes into my diet, in both main courses and side dishes. The bright green, tangy kale seemed a likely companion to butter braised radishes. I started by melting a good lump of butter in a hot skillet and tossing in my radishes. I turn the flame down to medium-low / low. The slow cooking gives the radishes a nicely browned exterior but still maintains the slight crunch and really brings out their wonderful sweetness. After removing the stalks, I chop the kale into 2-inch pieces and wash. The kale is then added to the radishes and liberally salted. Kale can be a bit fibrous, so I poached the vegetables in a mixture of 1/2 cup of water and 1/4 cup of red wine. I finished my side dish with a sprinkle of lime juice.


A wonderful side dish calls out for a piece of fantastic meat. A beautifully carmelized thick cut pork chop or a fatty piece of prime rib would be great pairings. I opted for juicy roast chicken. For me, roast chicken is one of the easiest and most comforting meals to make. In my family, we fight over the dark meat; the white meat is eaten at room temperature or more likely is secreted away in tomorrow night's dinner. To avoid this, I roast only chicken thighs and legs. Though it doesn't look as impressive as beautifully roast whole chicken, roasting select parts allows everyone at the table an equal chance at the choice pieces.


Pick chicken with the skin on--it will insure juiciness. Once, when I wanted to cook a bit healthier, I tried roasting skinless chicken. I'm sure you can imagine how that turned out. Rub meat with olive oil, salt and pepper and toss in the oven. For added tastiness, I like to lay the chicken over a bed of onion rings (sometimes I use fennel fronds, rosemary sprigs, or lemon). This infuses flavor into the meat and gives the skin a nice crispness. Because the process is so easy, I try to roast enough chicken to last about three meals (including dinner). With the leftover chicken, I cut the meat off the bone and shred. Later in the week, I use it for chicken salads, tacos, or fried rice. It's a nice time saving solution.

Making pies tomorrow for the big feast. Promise to write about it soon!! Send my greetings to your parents.

Love love

M

Roast Chicken with Braised Radish and Kale
serves 2

2 chicken legs with skin
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 onion, sliced into rings
salt
pepper

2 cups chopped kale
5 large radishes
1 clove of garlic, smashed
1 tbsp butter
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup red wine
sprinkle of lime juice

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place the onions rings on the pan in a single layer. Remove chicken from packaging. Pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle each chicken leg with one tablespoon of olive oil. Generously salt and pepper on all sides. Roast in the oven for about 30 minutes. The chicken is done when the skin is nicely browned and crisp and the juices run clear when the meat is pierced with a fork.

In a large skillet, melt the butter. Clean radishes. Remove the roots and the stems. Cut into sixths or quarters, depending on size. For even cooking, cut radishes into similar sized pieces. Add radishes to melted butter and cook over a medium-low / low flame. After about five minutes, add the smashed garlic. Salt. Slowly braise the radishes until nicely golden on all sides, about 10 additional minutes. Prepare the kale by removing the hard stems. Save the stems for stock. Chop the leaves into 2-inch pieces. Add chopped kale to the skillet with radishes. Gently saute kale. Salt. Add 1/2 cup water and 1/4 cup red wine. Cover and steam for about 5-7 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Taste for seasoning. The radishes are done when they can be easily pierced with a fork. The kale should still have some crunch and retain its bright green color. Sprinkle with lime juice to taste.