Goat Cheese Souffles

Dear Michelle,

These are not to be lightly dismissed. Like most souffles, they are not without effort to produce, but believe me when I tell you that it is so worth it. They are light, rich, tangy with goat cheese, and crunchy with nuts; both indulgent in flavor and relatively healthy, they are perfect for when you want more than a salad but less than a gratin. Cooked in a water bath, unlike most souffles, they don't rise as high but are more stable, and so can be reheated for lunch or dinner the next day.

I first made these several years ago for a dinner party. I often willfully forget that you're never supposed to make something for the first time when people are coming over, but I've not had a serious mishap yet, and most of my friends are happy enough to have someone else cooking for them that I don't worry about it too much. Nor did I need to, when I made these the first time. Or the next, or the time after that. I wouldn't say they are foolproof, but if you closely follow the directions you will be rewarded. This recipe is out of the 1997 Joy of Cooking, a book which has rarely failed me (the exception that comes to mind is butter cream frosting; Julia Child's poached egg butter cream is the way to go).

My mother is usually happy to let me cook dinner when I offer; this way she doesn't have to worry about it, and usually my parents are pleased with the results. There was that time with the brussels sprouts, but overall they seem to like what I make for them. I knew they would love the goat's cheese souffles, and we've had them several times since the first. My father (a gastronomically indulged man) is always asking why we don't make souffles for him more often (telling him he could make souffles would inevitably lead to disaster), so the promise of these for dinner, and leftovers, will always make him happy.

Goat Cheese Souffles, pg 139 1997 edition Joy of Cooking

This is one of those recipes you'll want to read through more than once before starting, and assemble all ingredients and kitchen equipment you'll need. Trust me, you'll be happy you did. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350F.

3/4 c walnuts or pecans
1/4-1/2 c softened unsalted butter
1/4 c cornmeal
3 T unsalted butter
1/4 c flour
2/3 c milk
10 oz fresh unripened goat's cheese
5 lg eggs
2 cloves garlic, very finely minced (or 2-3 T shallot)
1/4 t dried thyme (in the summer, I'd use fresh, finely chopped; here, I used herbes de Provence)
1/4 t salt
1/4 t white pepper (I used black, because that's what we had)
1/4 t cream of tartar

Toast nuts. While keeping an eye on these, generously butter 8 6-oz ramekins. I used a pastry brush with the softened butter. Finely chop nuts when cooled, then combine with cornmeal. Roll this mixture around the ramekins until thoroughly coated. Allow some extra to remain on the bottom. The JOC recommends dividing the remaining mixture among the ramekins, but I think that is too much. It is crucial to have the ramekins properly buttered and coated, as this will help the souffle slide up, so don't skimp. Start a kettle of water boiling for the water bath, and make sure you have a baking pan that fits all the ramekins.

If you haven't already chopped the garlic/ shallot, do this now. Divide the eggs; you'll want 5 whites and 4 yolks. Be very careful to avoid contaminating the whites with yolk or oil. I thoroughly clean two smallish bowls with soap and hot water, then wipe them with a paper towel and vinegar to degrease. Get another small bowl, for the yolks. Break and separate an egg (I use my hands to separate, I think it's easiest), putting the yolk into its bowl, then adding the white from the first to the second "whites bowl". This ensures that if the yolk does break, you only loose one white and not all of them. I know this sounds incredibly OCD, but if your whites are contaminated, they will not whip properly, and you'll have to start over again. It's worth washing and preparing the whisk/beaters and mixing bowl that you will be using at this time as well.

Warm milk. Melt 3T butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour until smooth, continuing to cook, stirring, for 1 minute additionally. Remove from heat and stir in milk (slowly, or it will clump; I use a whisk, but if you do this, stir, do not aerate with it). Return to heat and bring to a boil, stirring briskly, until very thick (see below photo).

Scrape into bowl, then add goat cheese and mash till cheese is melted. Add in: 4 egg yolks, garlic or shallot, herbs, salt and pepper.

Beat whites until stiff but not dry, adding cream of tartar once they begin to foam.

Stir 1/4 of whites into souffle base to lighten it, then fold in the rest. It should not be combined all the way; there will be some small bits of just white visible.

Spoon into ramekins and place them into pan; add hot water till about 3/4 of the way up the sides. Bake until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean, about 30 minutes. The tops will be slightly golden. Do not open the oven door to look until at least half the cooking time has passed. Let stand in water bath for 15 minutes, then invert onto salad or plate. Can also be served flipped the other way around.

We ate them with pear and green salad, and slices of baguette brushed with the leftover ramekin butter and crisped in the oven.

Good eaten after reheating in the oven the next couple of days.

Granola Again

Dear Michelle,

I feel like it's been taking me forever to get this post up. Days of attempts to sit down and just write it all out have passed, with nothing worthwhile going from my brain to the keyboard. Finally, I have a day with nothing due and nothing pressing to do, and I am sitting with my laptop at the kitchen table, drinking a pot of delicious white tea, determined that today I will successfully tell you how much I love granola.

I've been craving granola ever since I read your post about it. The cooler the weather gets, the better it sounds, and so last weekend, on a cold, rainy day, my good friend Koren came over with her tiny little baby and we made three different kinds of granola. It sounds ambitious, but when you've dedicated the whole day to granola-making and catching up, it's not only do-able, but relaxing.

The rain was blowing against the windows on and off all day, but we were drinking tea in an apartment warmed by the oven and the scent of toasting cinnamon, nuts and oats. Rain can be so nice when you are watching it from inside, and listening to all of the noises that come along with it: the "swoosh" of the cars passing in the street, the pitter-pat on window panes and roofs and in the puddles, and if you are unlucky enough to be outside, on your umbrella, or oppressively on the roof of your car.

Making so many batches of granola does take a little while, but it provided us with the perfect opportunity to chat about various things and play with the baby, who was on the couch with Jeff most of the time. Nothing warms this girl's heart like seeing her fiancee not only playing with the baby he's been tasked with watching, but also appearing to enjoy it. Except, that is, a perfect hot chocolate, and maybe foie gras.

Koren had come loaded with goodies from the Park Slope Food Co-op, which is legendary on this island of overpriced groceries, and we sorted out what variations we were going to make based on what we had all together:

- walnut, pumpkin seed, orange flavored dried cranberries (I love those things!), and dark chocolate
- pecan, dried cherry, meringue bits, and milk chocolate
- cashew, slivered almond, sunflower seed, dried blueberry

I've mentioned before how much I like this recipe from the site that never lets me down, which was the first I ever tried, and the only one I have tried so far. It really makes a great granola, rich and crunchy but not too sweet, and easy to modify. I kept the wet ingredients, the oats, and the sugar constant for the most part, and substituted various other things for those components that really make granola tasty: the nuts, seeds, and fruits. Meringue bits combined with the butteriness of the pecans made the second variation my favorite. The meringue crunches nicely, like "lucky charms marshmallows" (Jeff's words). I also added puffed rice for lightness; it's not all that noticeable, so next time I'll probably double it.

Granola in Three Variations:

1- Walnut, Pumpkin Seed, Orange Flavored Dried Cranberries, and Dark Chocolate

Dry Ingredients:

2 1/2 c oats (rolled, not instant)
1 1/2 c walnuts
1 c raw shelled pumpkin seeds
2 c puffed rice (doubled from the 1c I used; let me know how it works out)
1/4 c sugar (the recipe called for brown, which I didn't have and didn't want to venture out to get, so I added 1t molasses to the wet ingredients. Do either)
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t ginger
1/4 t nutmeg
1/2 t salt

3/4- 1 c dried cranberries
4 oz dark chocolate, either chopped or in chips ( I used 6 oz, and maybe I didn't mix it up enough, but parts of it were more like granola candy. Which is all fine and good and scrumptious, and if that's what you want, increase chocolate to 6 oz)

Wet Ingredients:

1/2 c unsweetened applesauce (this is the genius ingredient in this granola, and the reason I will always come back to this recipe. I wish I'd tried pureed pumpkin for this version. I'll try it next time.)
1/4 c rice syrup
1/8 c honey
1T oil (I used walnut; use something either mild or complimentary in flavor)
1t molasses (if white sugar is used above)

Preheat oven to 300 F. Combine all dry ingredients except fruit and chocolate in a large bowl, and wet ingredients in a smaller bowl, and mix each thoroughly. Mix together. Spread uniformly in a large baking sheet, and pop into oven. Stir every 10 minutes to ensure even cooking. At 30-45 minutes, when granola smells toasty and looks golden-brown, pull from oven. Stir, very thoroughly if you like your granola looser, less if you like it clumpy, and add fruit now if you are using it. This is one of those times when you add it till it looks like the right amount. At this point I put it in a large glass baking dish to re-use the baking sheet, but if you are one of those lucky people who has several of these, there's no need for that. Once granola has cooled to warm, but is no longer hot, add chocolate and stir gently to distribute. You do not want the chocolate to uniformly coat the granola; it should retain some of it's shape so that you find it in small clumps.
Let cool completely, and put in glass jars (Koren was prepared and brought some) or large plastic bags.

Variation 2: Pecan, Dried Cherry, Meringue Bits, and Milk Chocolate

Follow above directions, with the following ingredients:

2 c oats
1 1/2 c pecans
2 c puffed rice
2 c crushed meringue cookies
1 c chopped dried cherries
4 oz chopped milk chocolate (wait till just barely warn to mix in the milk chocolate; it has a lower melting temp.)
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t ginger
1/4 t nutmeg
1/2 t salt

Wet Ingredients:

use above listed, plus 1 T vanilla


Variation 3: Cashew, Slivered Almond, Sunflower Seed, Dried Blueberry

Dry Ingredients:

2 1/2 c oats
1 1/4 c slivered almonds
2 c puffed rice
1 c cashews
1 c sunflower seeds
1c dried blueberries

Wet Ingredients:

See first variation.

I discovered that mixing all three together is even better than any on it's own. It's a testamentto how good this stuff is that it's almost gone, though we made it last Saturday. I'm not even having it for breakfast, either; this is all snacking.