Variety is the Spice of Life

Dear Devon,

The Korean Table: From Barbecue to Bibimbap 100 Easy-To-Prepare Recipes, by Debra Samuels and Taekyung Chung, is my latest inspiration. I am a big fan of Korean food with its numerous sauces, tiny dishes of spicy kimchi, and fragrant meats. But I always thought this was food I would order, not prepare in my own kitchen. Late night TV scanning found me watching a special on Korean food. The show demonstrated several easy recipes and convinced me that what I ate at the restaurant was not beyond my capacity. The next day, I ordered The Korean Table from NYPL.

I have been glued to its pages for weeks, taking the book to bed with me to read just before I turn out the lights. The photographs are nicely shot and the writing is very clear and thorough. I especially like the introductory section where the authors systematically explain the many ingredients often used in Korean cooking and where to find them (very useful for a novice). Korean food is based on several core sauces which are used in soups, dipping sauces, marinades, dressing, and pickling. Spending an afternoon mixing up a couple of these sauces will yield many tasty meals.


To start off, I chose what seemed to be the most frequently used sauce, a seasoned red pepper paste. I made a big batch and stored the leftovers in a glass jar in the fridge. From this one sauce, I prepared three small dishes: seasoned grilled eggplant, spicy steamed tofu, and grilled scallions.

I was really pleased with how the dishes turned out. I took two Japanese eggplants, sliced them on a bias, and grilled them. Grilling the eggplant gives it a nice smoky flavor, providing a dark contrast to the tangy and spicy red pepper sauce. Mixing in the sauce while the eggplant is still warm will help to deepen the flavor. Korean tofu is unique for its dense texture and intense bean flavor. I often prefer it to the watery, loose, and light tofu from Chinese cooking. I found an organic tofu at the local market that has many of the same qualities as the Korean stuff, and used it in my next dish. I steamed the tofu using a rice cooker while I prepared a soy sauce based dressing. I wanted to create several dishes that varied in flavor, texture, and spiciness. So, I chose a soy sauce based dressing. The sauce is sweeter and lighter than its red pepper counterpart. One of my all time favorites are long shoots of grilled scallions. They are sweet and moist, crunchy and with that wonderful onion spiciness. I didn't want to destroy the delicate flavor of the scallions, so I lightly drizzled a tsp of the red pepper paste over the softened shoots. The meal was completed with steamed white rice and a glass of wine, which I might add, did not go well with the meal: Next time I'll reach for a beer.


Seasoned Red Pepper Paste (from The Korean Table)
Makes approximately 2 cups
1/2 cup Korean coarse red pepper flake
1 cup Korean red pepper paste
4 tbsp garlic paste, to make this smash peeled garlic cloves in a mortar and pestle
1 tbsp grated ginger
3/4 tbsp oyster sauce
4 tbsp soy sauce
4 tbsp light brown sugar
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
(will last up to 2 months in the fridge)

In a large bowl, whisk together Korean red pepper flakes, Korean red pepper paste, garlic paste. grated ginger, oyster sauce, soy sauce, light brown sugar and lemon juice. Transfer to a jar and store in the fridge. Use as needed. Surprisingly, the paste isn't as spicy as it sounds. I suggest tasting it before mixing into any of the sauces. As always, adjust the spiciness to your desired level.

Grilled Eggplant
2 Japanese eggplant, sliced
3/4 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 1/2 tbsp seasoned red pepper paste
1 tbsp olive oil

Heat up a large grill pan. Lightly oil. Slice eggplant on a bias. Lay flat on the grill and leave undisturbed to cook. Flip only once to preserve sharp grill lines. The combined cooking time should be 12-15 minutes. Whisk together sesame oil, rice wine vinegar, brown sugar, seasoned red pepper paste (from above), and olive oil. Taste and adjust according to your desired level of spiciness. I tend to think sesame oil is a bit overpowering, so I reduced the amount. Add in grilled eggplant, still hot, and toss to evenly coat each slice.


Steamed Tofu
1 pound of firm tofu
2 tbsp brown sugar
4 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp grated ginger
1 tsp red pepper paste
dash sesame seeds
1 scallion, chopped

Over a large pot of boiling water or with a rice cooker, steam a large block of firm tofu. Whisk together brown sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, red pepper flakes, 1/2 tsp rated ginger, and 1 tsp red pepper paste. Add a dash of roasted sesame seeds and one chopped scallion. Toss in steamed tofu to evenly coat.

Grilled Scallions
3 scallions

Clean scallions. Remove the roots and the dark green parts. Brush with a bit of corn oil. Heat grill pan. When pan is nice and hot, lay down scallions. Cook until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Drizzle with 1/2 tsp seasoned red pepper paste.