Apple Galette

Dear Devon,

Watch out, Zabar's, here I come! I've gotten into the habit of visiting Zabar's in the 7 o'clock hour, when the croissants are marked down 75 cents. I'll pick up two on my way home, and more often than not, croissants aren't the only thing going in my bag. It's one of those places that's absolutely irresistible to anyone with any sensory appreciation. Don't think I'm completely decadent- this only happens once every couple of weeks.

Somehow I got it into my head to make my own morning pastry without having to make puff pastry. Without any real game plan, I set out to make individual-sized galettes, about four inches in diameter. In an SAT verbal-style analogy, galette is to tarte as a English garden is to a French garden. Galettes are a without formal pattern, a bit wild, but with a relaxed elegance derived from combining various elements in one clearly defined space. That being said, I don't usually set out to make galettes. More often than not, they are failed tartes.

I use Julia Child's recipe for pâte sucrée from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, vol. 1. I am still trying to find the best recipe for this stuff. I want one that combines the sweet taste of butter with a light, flaky crumb. It seems that every baker has a recipe for pâte sucrée. I've probably tried a half dozen in the last year or so. Looking back over my cookbooks, a few recipes have ended up marked in red ink, a reminder not to repeat them. Others have been adequate, but ultimately unsatisfying. Julia Child's pâte sucrée comes closest to what I'm searching for. It has a crust that browns beautifully in the oven and is laden with rich, delicious butter. I'm in the habit of using good quality butter- It makes a big difference. If you want the pasty to taste like plastic, use cheap butter; if you want it to transport you to Paris, use a high fat butter.

The recipe is relatively simple. I focus mainly on the crust. The filling takes minutes to prepare. Thinly slice apples and set aside a bowl of cinnamon sugar. No fuss, but maximum tastiness. Apples are the easiest fruit to use because they don't let their juices ooze out like berries or plums. They also retain their shape nicely, so be mindful when arranging your slices.

Taking into account that this is for breakfast, I settle on four small galettes, maybe 3 inches in diameter. You can easily make one large galette, instead, if you like. The crust turns out beautifully. The heady perfume of baking butter fills my kitchen and lungs. Two sets of greedy fingers can barely contain their excitement when the four golden brown galettes come fresh out of the oven. The apples are wonderfully cooked, quietly spiced and lightly sweetened. The soft apples give way to a rich and buttery crust. With each bite, large flakes of crust drop onto the plate, later gathered by butter-soaked fingers.

This definitely breaks the numbing cycle of cereal and coffee.

Apple Galette

1 cup flour
4 oz butter, cubed
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1/4 cup ice water

3 small apples, sliced
1 tbsp vanilla sugar
1/4 tsp cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with silpat or wax paper.

Prepare a acidulated ice water bath (mixture of lemon juice and water). Peel and core apples. Thinly slice them, about 1/8 inch. Dunk slices in water bath to prevent discoloration. When you are ready to assemble the galettes, drain apple slices and pat dry.

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, and salt. Add chilled, cubed butter. Toss butter lightly with flour. With your hands or a pastry blender, work and rub the flour into the butter until the pieces of butter are about the size of peas. Drizzle 1/4 cup of ice water. Gently mix until a soft dough forms. Add an additional tablespoon of water if the dough is dry. Turn out onto a clean surface and knead gingerly until the dough is smooth and the butter is completely incorporated. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Set in the fridge to chill for about an hour or up to one day.

When ready to use, allow dough to rest at room temp for a few minutes. Lightly flour your work surface and rolling pin. Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Set one piece on your floured surface. Return the remaining three pieces to the fridge. Gently roll the dough into a rough circle, 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Carefully arrange slices in a circular pattern in the center of prepared dough, leaving a one inch border. Sprinkle with 1/4 tablespoon cinnamon sugar (recipe follows). Fold excess dough over the arranged apples. Set on prepared baking sheet and chill in fridge while you prepare the remaining galettes. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, until golden brown.

Cinnamon Sugar: in a small bowl, combine cinnamon with sugar. Mix with a fork until combined. I used vanilla sugar. I always have that on hand. Simply place a used vanilla bean in a container of sugar. Easy and yummy. Great in coffee too!