Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Poblano Chili and Yellow Corn Risotto

Dear Devon,

I'm glad you enjoyed our trip to Fairway. It is one of the biggest benefits (and greatest temptations) of living uptown. Since moving here, I have ventured down the hill to Fairway at least twice a week. I am completely spoiled by the bounty of beautiful produce and the gigantic cold room that is five times the size of my apartment. The quality of the produce makes me bolder in the kitchen and eager to experiment. And I admit, I'm not always the one filling the shopping basket with unusual ingredients.

When the poblano chilies found their way onto my chopping board, my first instinct was to stuff them with cheese, drown them in tempura batter, and fry them in corn oil. Delicious. But, where is the thrill? With the spirit of a true adventurer, I needed to move beyond classic recipes. The challenge and the pleasure of unfamiliar ingredients is coaxing them to reveal their secrets. Inspired by the idea behind this classic recipe, I turned the poblano pepper from a one trick pony into a versatile, if unusual vegetable.

The $8.00 box of arborio rice, a guilty purchase from Fairway, had been in the back of my mind and pantry for a few weeks. When I bought the arborio rice, I had the appetite for risotto, but lacked the drive to ignite the stove top. The dark green poblano pepper was the inspiration I needed. To balance the heat, I ferreted out a can of coconut milk, embarrassingly neglected beyond its expiration date, from the pantry. My first thought was to roast the pepper, charring the skin for an added depth of flavor. But in the end, I decided not to roast it. The smokiness of the charred skin would be lost in the creaminess of the coconut milk and make the whole dish taste burnt. I like the idea of making a risotto dotted with a mild spicy pepper, but didn't want the dish to be overwhelmingly spicy. The coconut milk lent the perfect balance of richness and creaminess that melted cheese lends in stuffed poblanos. My intention was to add a bit of fatty richness and an exotic aroma. Frozen corn kernels tossed in at the very end add a much needed touch of sweet brightness to an otherwise rich, heavy and creamy dish. I punched up the flavor with a bit of freshly grated nutmeg and cracked black pepper straight from the grinder. The luxurious creaminess of this risotto masks its humble ingredients.


Poblano Chili and Yellow Corn Risotto

1 1/2 cups arborio rice
3-4 cups of chicken broth
6 tbsp coconut milk
1 poblano chili, finely diced
1/2 vidalia onion, diced
2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
1/2 cup corn kernels, frozen
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
pinch of nutmeg
1 tbsp fresh chives
1/4 tsp salt

In a large pan, heat olive oil over medium-high flame. Add garlic, chopped poblano pepper, and diced onion. Cook until onion is translucent but not browned. Add arborio rice, all at once. Lightly toast the rice in hot oil mixture. When the edges become slightly crisped (but without any color), ladle in 1 cup of chicken broth. Gradually, ladle in chicken broth 1 cup at a time, waiting for the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more. Stir rice every 5 to 10 minutes to prevent sticking on the bottom or burning. After each addition of chicken broth, add coconut milk 2 tablespoons at a time. The whole process should take about 30 - 40 minutes. When the rice is almost finished cooking, stir in frozen corn. Grate in a bit of nutmeg and some freshly ground white pepper. Cook rice until al dente. Stir in grated parmesan cheese.

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