A Fish By Any Other Name

Dear Devon

I have a sleek and shimmering branzino on my cutting board. I am going to roast it whole at 500 degrees for a crispy, charred skin. Delicious!!

I love fish. Whenever fish appears on the menu, I resolutely snap it shut and look for the server. Everyone at the table knows what I'm eating. My first time in Germany (I was 15), I ordered a roasted fish. The entire fish, head and all, came out. With a few deft cuts and movements, my dad showed me how to filet a fish. I have never looked back. It stands out as one of my better meals.

For years, I drooled over recipes for roast fish, but I didn't have the nerve to try it for myself. What finally brushed away my insecurities? I don't know, but what a mistake to have let that time pass. Roasting must be the easiest way to prepare fish. None of that fishy smell, no hot oil spills, and quick, easy clean up. When selecting fish, I look for a few things: clean, bright skin, clear eyes, and the absence of a fishy smell. I always ask the fishmonger to gut it for me. I once saw my grandmother gut and clean a fish. It takes both skill and a strong stomach. I was surprised at her skill, but I don't feel the need to perfect that technique.


I like to roast branzino or trout, seasoned with salt, pepper, and fennel, and stuffed with fresh herbs like dill, parsley, or thyme. The subtle flavor of the fish with a trace of herbs really sings. A sprinkle of lemon juice and a splash of olive oil enhances the soft sweetness of the fish. Some people choose not to eat the crackly charred skin. I find it one of the better parts. It imparts a wonderful salty and slight fishy taste to the flaky meat. It's quite possibly the most wonderful meal. I serve it with a generous helping of spinach sauteed in garlic with a pinch of chili flakes. A crisp white wine adds the perfect note.



Here's an interesting side note: Branzino is actually part of the sea bass family. In Europe, it is sometimes called sea perch. It has been on dining tables since Roman times!!


Whole Roasted Branzino
serves 1 hungry person or 2 moderate eaters

1 beautiful branzino, roughly 1 to 2 pounds
1 teaspoon, sea salt
1 tsp white peppercorns
1 tsp fennel
10 sprigs parsley
5 sprigs dill
1 lemon, cut into wedges
olive oil (optional)

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Set aside.

Roughly grind the salt, peppercorns, and fennel with the mortar and pestle. Don't pulverize the mixture. You should be able to see pieces of each ingredient.

Remove fish from wrappings. Rinse under cold water, inside and out. Pat dry with paper towels. Using a sharp knife, cut three slashes in each side of the fish. Rub the fish all over inside and out with the salt / pepper mixture. Make sure to get some flavoring into the slashes. Stuff the inside with the herbs. Carefully place the fish on the prepared baking sheet.

Roast in the oven, undisturbed, until the meat is translucent right down to the bone and flaky, about 8 to 12 minutes. The Joy of Cooking recommends 8 minutes per inch of thickness. To get that wonderful blackened skin, turn the broiler on at the last moment until the skin reaches your level of crispness. Every broiler is different, so I am hesitant to give a time. For instance, my mother's super high-power oven can broil something to the point of charcoal in 30 seconds, while my broiler can take 5 minutes. Use your best judgment.

Serve with a sprinkle of lemon juice and generous glug of olive oil.