Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Pasta Fagioli


Dear Devon,

I have way too much stuff! Over the past two weeks, I have gradually and awkwardly schlepped my books, furniture, cooking implements, clothes, and random junk into my new apartment. The move is nearing its final stages. Only the piano remains. I'm not foolhardy enough to try moving that by myself. Fear and a flight of stairs quickly extinguished thrift.

Given my increased level of physical exertion, I turned to black eyed peas as a good source of nutrients. I intended to cook enough for two or three servings, but accidentally dumped the entire one-pound bag into the pot. C’est la vie! My folly is your windfall, as you will discover the charms and versatility of the black eyed pea!

There is a lot written about how to cook dried beans. After trying various methods, I still don’t know which is the best. Here’s what I did:
Fill a large pot with water. Add one pound black eyed peas. Throw in a bay leaf. Gradually bring to a boil. Simmer on low heat for 1 ½ to 2 hours, or until the beans are tender. Drain and cool. Store in large containers.

Beans = pasta fagioli. The recipe is flexible and works with practically any type of bean: white beans, kidney beans, and even lentils. Use whatever greens you have in the fridge. I prepare this with kale, broccoli rabe, spinach, and sometimes beet tops. Canned beans can be substituted for quicker and easier cooking. My pasta of choice is large shells. I love the surprise of the smooth, salty bean nestled in the starchy shell. I haven't had time to stock up the pantry, so this time I used penne. It is a good substitute and a staple in my cupboard.


I had never used black eyed peas in this recipe before. I was surprised at the texture of the bean, which was a bit denser, not as smooth as the white beans I had used in the past. I needed a green that could easily balance the heartier texture of the black eyed pea. Kale, with its slight tang and darker flavoring, seemed like a good counterpart. I found that purple kale worked even better than green in this instance, making the dish more vibrant both in color and flavor. I finished it off with a dash of red chili flakes and a pat of butter for richness.

Definitely add this to your list of standing recipes. It is too yummy to set aside. Forkfuls of beans, pasta, and kale coated with a garlic, butter, and chili flake...is there anything better?

Pasta Fagioli
Serves 4

1 strip of bacon, chopped
2 shallots, sliced
2 cloves of garlic, smashed and sliced
half bunch of kale
½ cup chicken broth or water
pinch of red chili flake
1 cup black eyed peas, pre-cooked
pasta (preferably shells)
1 tbsp butter

Bring to boil one large pot of salted water. Add enough pasta for four servings.

In a large sauté pan, cook bacon. Drain off all but 1 tbsp of fat and add a tablespoon of oil. Roughly chop shallots. Smash garlic cloves and chop. Add onions and garlic to hot oil. Gently sauté over medium heat until slightly translucent. Wash kale thoroughly--I often find pockets of dirt and encrusted mud on the leaves. Remove the thick, fibrous stalk. Chop into nice 1 ½ inch pieces. Add to the sauté pan. When the kale heats through, about 5 minutes, pour in chicken broth. Cook over medium low heat for about 10 minutes. Salt and throw in a pinch of chili flake. Mix in cooked black eyed peas. Cook until beans are heated through. Toss in cooked pasta. Taste for salt. Finish with butter.

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