Catching up

Dear Michelle,

I write to you from the coffee shop down the street; it is far too hot and steamy in my apartment to do anything, much less concentrate on making words make sense. It feels so much worse after having come back from the lovely temperate northwest coast, where sandals and shorts weren't warm enough come nighttime.


You were busy while I was gone, and everything looks like it was delicious. I sure could use some of that cantaloupe sorbet right now! Mint iced tea and borrowed air conditioning will have to do for the present.

So I've got some catching up to do, and much to share with you. Vancouver was amazing, and probably the most pleasant city I've ever visited. It was like Miami's tall green-glass buildings and beaches (though smaller, and with much colder water) smashed together with Palo-Alto's brutalist architecture of concrete, wood, and round smooth stone, plus the occasional charming Victorian house all nestled between sharp impressive mountains and with water all around. Add to that a lack of pretension, happy, polite people, fountains and public spaces abounding (including the amazing Stanley Park), clean streets, and good food. Really, really good food.


I should start my gastro-narrative in Portland, where it began. We stayed the night there before heading North, and went to a terrific and what ended up being debilitating dinner at Le Pigeon with some friends. Perhaps used to New York portions, we made a mistake that we'd make again and again on our trip; we ordered too much, and couldn't stop eating it. The standout dish was a lamb tongue appetizer, served on a bed of fresh English peas sauteed with onions. I think the others were humoring me when I said we should order it, but everyone tried it and went back for second bites. Of the entrees, the duck and the burger both really stood out.



For breakfast the next day (I promise I won't tell you about every meal, but this was really good), we stopped at Pix Patisserie just down the street from our friend John's place. We liked it so much we had breakfast there on our way back as well. They have an assortment of delicious pastries, incredible macarons, and very good chocolates.

Lunch at Lake City Gyros near Seattle deserves its own post, and it will get one. Dinner that first night, and again before we left, was at various Izakaya places that were all clustered together up on a main street close to Stanley Park. Izakaya is like Japanese tapas, a selection of small dishes with a few more substantial portions thrown in. We had incredible sashimi; the highlight was Albacore tuna belly, creamed with a dash of sauce and accompanied by garlic toast on which to spread it. SO smooth. Another dish worth mentioning was a very simple broth, salmon and rice at Guu With Garlic. I was full at this point, but we finished that salmon.




The Granville Market, just over the bridge on a small island (that might not really be an island), is a large enclosed structure with all sorts of goodies: little shops selling everything from fresh kaffir lime leaves to fish, bread, cheese- you get the idea. I drooled over a charcuterie unlike even the best I've seen here in the states, as along with the things you'd expect it also offered very French products like fine pork liver sausage (more like a pate), blood and tongue sausage, several kinds of headcheese, and other fascinating things. I limited myself to the first two products, and they were delicious. The produce at the market blows that at the NYC farmers market far, far away, both in quality and price (though I imagine that to be true for most of the west coast; it certainly has been in my experience), and we cooked a few meals at the little apartment where we stayed.




We had another I'm-so-full-I-could-die-why-did-I-keep-eating meal at Vij's, an acclaimed Indian place. While it was all so good that my mouth waters now, just thinking about it, the stand-out was the Punjabi Heart Attack and the lamb popsicles (trimmed, separated rack) in cream curry on spinach potatoes (the leftovers heated up well the next night). We were too full for dessert, but I wish I could have tried it.


A late discovery was Japadog, a hot dog stand with a Japanese twist. See the menu below.



Last but not least was the Vietnamese place Phnom Penh in Vancouver's Chinatown; you'll be seeing my attempts to recreate the two dishes they are known for here, once it cools down a little. Those are butterbeef--thinly sliced, very rare beef with a sweet-sour-salty sauce and heaped with chopped cilantro and peanuts; and chicken wings, but not your standard chicken wings. These were SO crisp, SO light, sprinkled with lightly sauteed garlic and served with a very sour lime-garlic sauce. We sat at a large table with two other parties, and everyone was eating those wings.

Have you noticed that most of the places we went served Asian food? I am very fond of it, so this was partly preordained, but the city's large Asian population dominates the local food culture. Perhaps because of this, I also noted, with pleasure, that tea was not overshadowed by coffee, as it so often in here in the states. You know, coffee places usually have tea, and if you're lucky they'll have loose leaf tea, but it always feels like a concession. Here, tea and coffee get equal space on shop awnings, and I found a place that ONLY served matcha-related products. Even New York doesn't have one of those.

Thank you, Vancouver. I'm sure I'll be seeing you again.

PS- non-food photos can be seen in daily installments here.

Poblano Chili and Yellow Corn Risotto

Dear Devon,

I'm glad you enjoyed our trip to Fairway. It is one of the biggest benefits (and greatest temptations) of living uptown. Since moving here, I have ventured down the hill to Fairway at least twice a week. I am completely spoiled by the bounty of beautiful produce and the gigantic cold room that is five times the size of my apartment. The quality of the produce makes me bolder in the kitchen and eager to experiment. And I admit, I'm not always the one filling the shopping basket with unusual ingredients.

When the poblano chilies found their way onto my chopping board, my first instinct was to stuff them with cheese, drown them in tempura batter, and fry them in corn oil. Delicious. But, where is the thrill? With the spirit of a true adventurer, I needed to move beyond classic recipes. The challenge and the pleasure of unfamiliar ingredients is coaxing them to reveal their secrets. Inspired by the idea behind this classic recipe, I turned the poblano pepper from a one trick pony into a versatile, if unusual vegetable.

The $8.00 box of arborio rice, a guilty purchase from Fairway, had been in the back of my mind and pantry for a few weeks. When I bought the arborio rice, I had the appetite for risotto, but lacked the drive to ignite the stove top. The dark green poblano pepper was the inspiration I needed. To balance the heat, I ferreted out a can of coconut milk, embarrassingly neglected beyond its expiration date, from the pantry. My first thought was to roast the pepper, charring the skin for an added depth of flavor. But in the end, I decided not to roast it. The smokiness of the charred skin would be lost in the creaminess of the coconut milk and make the whole dish taste burnt. I like the idea of making a risotto dotted with a mild spicy pepper, but didn't want the dish to be overwhelmingly spicy. The coconut milk lent the perfect balance of richness and creaminess that melted cheese lends in stuffed poblanos. My intention was to add a bit of fatty richness and an exotic aroma. Frozen corn kernels tossed in at the very end add a much needed touch of sweet brightness to an otherwise rich, heavy and creamy dish. I punched up the flavor with a bit of freshly grated nutmeg and cracked black pepper straight from the grinder. The luxurious creaminess of this risotto masks its humble ingredients.


Poblano Chili and Yellow Corn Risotto

1 1/2 cups arborio rice
3-4 cups of chicken broth
6 tbsp coconut milk
1 poblano chili, finely diced
1/2 vidalia onion, diced
2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
1/2 cup corn kernels, frozen
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
pinch of nutmeg
1 tbsp fresh chives
1/4 tsp salt

In a large pan, heat olive oil over medium-high flame. Add garlic, chopped poblano pepper, and diced onion. Cook until onion is translucent but not browned. Add arborio rice, all at once. Lightly toast the rice in hot oil mixture. When the edges become slightly crisped (but without any color), ladle in 1 cup of chicken broth. Gradually, ladle in chicken broth 1 cup at a time, waiting for the rice to absorb the liquid before adding more. Stir rice every 5 to 10 minutes to prevent sticking on the bottom or burning. After each addition of chicken broth, add coconut milk 2 tablespoons at a time. The whole process should take about 30 - 40 minutes. When the rice is almost finished cooking, stir in frozen corn. Grate in a bit of nutmeg and some freshly ground white pepper. Cook rice until al dente. Stir in grated parmesan cheese.

Mint Iced Tea

Dear Devon,

A few weeks ago, you sampled one of my most recent ice teas, a fennel and lime one. I keep empty bottles of Pellegrino and Bombay Gin for my iced teas. I guess you weren't expecting my greenish-yellow fennel tea when you reached into the fridge for some fizzy water. Your look of surprise was priceless. I am still tinkering with the recipe, so I won't be sharing it with you today, but don't worry, it is in the queue of future posts.

With the AC at work broken, I am constantly thinking of ways to cool down. It's absolutely miserable in the office. I have commandeered the fan and am keeping it for myself and Oliver. In the summer, I usually look forward to work because I am surrounded by overwhelming, Alaskan cold front AC. I even keep a sweater in my office to combat the chill. But my current situation is nowhere near Alaska - more like the punishing heat of Death Valley. When I start to wonder if bathing suits count as appropriate business attire, I know we're in the dog days of summer.

I find the easiest way to cool myself is with a large glass of iced tea. This summer, I've brewed a number of iced teas, but my favorite so far is a simple mint. I infuse mint leaves crushed with white sugar in boiling water along with a sachet of English Breakfast black tea. The recipe is super easy, which is good because it has been my main method of refreshment. I only buy sodas and juices on rare occasions, so these infusions are necessary for my survival in the summertime. The smell of mint runs deep, adding a second pleasant dimension to this soothing drink.

Brewing your own iced tea has many benefits. Mainly and most importantly, I control the amount of sugar and the strength of the tea. Commercial teas tend to be over-sweetened. The herbal or fruit flavorings are heavy handed, pounding me over the head with intense, sometimes bitter flavor rather than subtly flavoring the drink. The tea retains its sweet minty smell, even days after refrigeration.

Serve over four big ice cubes and this refreshing ice tea will cool any sweating brow.

Mint Iced Tea

Large handful of mint, loosely packed 1/2 cup mint
1 teabag, English breakfast or other choice
1/2 tbsp sugar

Bring a large kettle of water to a rolling boil. Tea is best brewed with the water at the boiling point, unlike coffee which should be brewed just below boiling. Using a mortar and pestle, gently crush the sugar into the mint. Add mint-sugar mixture to tea pot. I use a teapot with a tea cage meant for loose leaf teas. It helps to separate the mint from the finished tea. Add one tea bag (I prefer English breakfast). Pour boiling water into prepared teapot and steep for 3 minutes. Remove and discard the teabag. Let the mint sit in the hot water for approximately 30 more minutes. Pour into a reserved storage container. Cool in fridge for a few hours. Serve over ice cubes.

Cantaloupe Sorbet

Dear Devon,

With temperatures soaring into the mid-90's, I can't bring myself to turn on the stove, the oven, or even the lamps. Any appliance that emits heat must be eliminated. To alleviate some of my discomfort, I decided to make sorbet. I always keep an ice cream work bowl in the freezer for an impromptu frozen dessert on a scorching summer day. If I feel the need to whip up some refreshing, utterly delicious ice cream or sorbet, I don't have to wait a full 24 hours for the work bowl to freeze (yes, it really takes that long). Two summers ago, when I first got the machine, I was too excited to wait it out, and the ice cream didn't congeal. Total disaster! The gaping mouth of the trash can was the only mouth that was cool that night. While this first attempt- at mango ice cream, I admit- ended up being inedible, the frozen treats that followed filled my summer and my freezer.

Although melon appeared regularly on the summer table, I was largely indifferent to melons as a child. Watermelon is the only exception. I can eat a whole watermelon in one sitting: I just can't carry one five blocks. My distaste for honeydews and cantaloupes (I don't like those weird hybrid ones) has diminished. I still don't love them, but melons are appreciated now, instead of just being tolerated.

The cooling effects of the melon makes it an ideal fruit for summer. Nothing beats biting into a juicy, cold slice of melon on a hot, humid day. Melon sorbet seemed an obvious second step. At first, I was a bit skeptical about cantaloupe sorbet. My recipe drawn from David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop asks for pureed cantaloupe and sugar. Cantaloupe is a delicate and soft flavor. Would cantaloupe on its own be enough? I also worried that the water content would be too great and I would end up with an icy sorbet with only a hint of cantaloupe flavor. I was completely wrong. Cantaloupe is perfect for sorbet. It is light, flavorful, and amazingly refreshing. The flowery taste of cantaloupe dominates the sorbet, releasing pleasant notes of citrus and mild honey. The texture is smooth and actually quite similar to the soft juiciness of a melon.

I pureed the melon in a food processor. A blender works better, but my kitchen doesn't have enough cabinet space for one. As a result, I strained the cantaloupe puree to get a smoother consistency. Store the finished sorbet in a glass loaf pan with a lid. It allows for easy scooping. Drag the ice cream scoop along the length of the pan to make those perfect ice cream shop scoops.

I am now fortified for a sticky, hot July.

Cantaloupe Sorbet
from Lebovitz, David The Perfect Scoop, p. 111.

1 cantaloupe
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 lime juiced

Carefully remove the skin from the cantaloupe, cutting where the green skin just meets the light orange fruit. Halve the cantaloupe and remove and discard the seeds. Dice into large 1 inch chunks. Place fruit into the bowl of a food processor along with sugar and lime juice. I suggest tasting the fruit before adding the sugar. If the fruit is already very sweet, adjust the amount of sugar. Puree until smooth. Using a flexible spatula and a sieve, push 2/3 of the mixture through a strainer. Whisk the remaining puree into the strained mixture. Cool in the fridge for 2 hours. Pour mixture into prepared ice cream maker for 35-40 minutes. At first, it looks like nothing is happening, but in the 20th minute or so, the sorbet will begin to thicken and come together. When the sorbet is thick, remove from the machine and place into a loaf pan. Cool in the freezer for an additional hour before serving. This will help the texture and continue to develop the flavors. I often find that homemade ice cream or sorbet tastes better the next day.

On Vacation

Dear Michelle-

I'm currently in Portland, stopped for the night on our way to Vancouver BC for our honeymoon. I don't have any recipes for you today, but here are some photos of our 4th of July at a family friend's barbeque in Salem, OR.

Tonight we dine at Le Pigeon in Portland, which I am very excited about; by all accounts it is excellent. I will send you photos of Vancouver and Vancouver Island soon, with a full account of where we go and what we eat. My friend Amanda might be writing in soon with an account of her summer culinary adventures in a beach town on Long Island. The stuff she's been telling me about makes my mouth water!

Stay cool if you can, I'll be seeing you again in a few weeks.

D

Dog Treats

Dear Devon,

Is it crazy that I make dog biscuits? Is a dog's palette sufficiently refined to distinguish between milkbones, gourmet treats, and my homemade dog biscuits? I like to think it is. For those who object to dog food showing up on a food blog, my reply is: dogs need healthy, yummy treats, too!! The way I figure, dogs make me happy, so I should give them something that makes them happy, too. Since I'm lucky enough to be surrounded by adorable pooches, these treats won't last long.

My obsession with dogs didn't begin until I started working at my current job. Before, I had always hesitantly approached dogs. Oliver, the ultimate charmer, completely changed that. Before long, we were best buds. He follows me around, sits on my lap as I work, and licks my face at least twice a day. How could I not fall in love? Of course, he's hopelessly spoiled, but then again, he puts up with our crazy antics (see below).

I first got the idea to make dog biscuits when my friend Eva abandoned our island of New York for the sandy, mango-filled island of Vieques, Puerto Rico. Eva left with a suitcase in one hand and her four legged companion, Qilin, in her sidecar. Their departure was met with great sadness on my part, so as a parting gift, I made a big bag of these delicious treats. Qilin loves these dog treats so much, he'll do four roll overs for one!

He's not the only one who will do tricks for a tasty bite. Watch the amazing aerialist Kugel below:



What a superstar!

Ivy won't do tricks for her treats. She just attacks the camera for her tasty bite. Note the large smudge. Her sweet wet nose smashed into the lens.

Before writing this post, I polled a number of friends about the idea of putting dog treats on our blog. The reactions were mixed. For those who are a bit squeamish, I didn't post any pictures of the treats in progress, only the beautiful finished treats and happy doggie faces: Qilin (Parson Russell Terrier), Nala (Mutt or 'Sato') , Kugel (Beagle), Oliver (Jack Russell), Ivy (a proud Mutt), Dante and Casey (Mini Poodles, not pictured).


Dog Treats
makes 167 3/4-inch round treats
(inspired by Traunfeld, Jerry. The Herbal Kitchen)

1 2/3 cup flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 1/2 cup rolled oatmeal
1 tbsp garlic powder
1 medium sized carrot
1 bunch parsley, roughly 1 cup
1/2 cup peanut butter
1 egg
1 cup water

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Line one large baking trays with wax paper. Set aside.

Using a food processor, process carrot and parsley, stems and all. In a separate bowl, mix together flour, cornmeal, rolled oatmeal. Add flour mixture to parsley and continue to process until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Scoop in a generous 1/2 cup peanut butter. With the machine running, pour in 1 egg and water through the feed tube. Process until a dense, doughy paste forms. It should smell of peanut butter, garlic, and parsley. Turn out into a large mixing bowl. The dough should be a bit wet and a little sticky.

Lightly flour a clean work surface. Roll dough to 1/2 inch thickness. Cut using cookie cutter of your choice. I chose the smallest round fluted cutter I own. It measures 3/4-inch in diameter. A small size treat will make any dog happy, from mini poodle to beagle. The dogs love it.

Bake in the oven for 2 hours until hard and dry. Cool in the oven overnight. Store in an airtight container, away from inquisitive sniffers and tail waggers.