Sunday Afternoon Tomato and Mushroom Focaccia

Dear Devon,

I made this on a lazy Sunday. Lazy mainly because I was too engrossed in a book to think much about lunch. I needed something easy and self-reliant in the "throw it in the oven and forget about it until the timer rings" way. I had made a trip to the farmer's market and picked up a few luxuries like fresh tomatoes and mushrooms. In a matter of minutes, my lunch was baking away in the oven and I was back to my book.


I used a store-bought flatbread about an inch thick. I wanted a substantial enough crust to support my tasty toppings. The bread crisped up nicely in the oven and absorbed the tomato juices. A soft goat cheese acts as a binding agent, replacing tomato sauce. Roughly torn mushrooms finish off the dish. For added flavor, brush an herb and olive oil mixture over the bread before arranging your toppings. Herbacious olive oils are easy to make, chopped fresh herbs like parsley, dill, thyme or rosemary (in combination or individually) whisked with olive oil and perhaps some crushed garlic. This meal is about easy preparation and general convenience. I don't always have time or the energy to cook an elaborate dish, but I don't feel that those limitations should detract from having a healthy or yummy meal.

It was absolutely beautiful when it came out of the oven. The oozing red and green tomatoes added vibrant color. The deep brown mushrooms retained their shape nicely. I loved the pairing of the rustic torn mushrooms with the almost opaque sliced tomatoes.


Tomato and Mushroom Focaccia

large piece of flatbread
1/2 green tomato, sliced
1/2 red tomato, sliced
6 or 8 mushrooms, roughly torn or chopped
3 oz soft goat cheese
2 tbsp of olive oil

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place a large piece of baked flatbread on a baking sheet. Dot with half the goat cheese. Layer the tomatoes over the cheese. Sprinkle with chopped or torn mushrooms. Top with the remaining goat cheese. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt.

Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, until the bread is crisp and the mushrooms are cooked through. The goat cheese will brown slightly. Remove from the oven. Drizzle with a good olive oil and a pinch of black pepper. Slice into squares and serve.

Not So Classic Pear Clafoutis

Dear Devon,

Life has been very hectic since Thanksgiving and is about to go crazy all over again. First, a couple of weeks ago, my kitchen was pulled apart by my very capable super, looking for the source of water dripping into the apartment below. It took a week to complete the work. A week and half worth of lost images, thanks to a corrupted memory card, plus the hole where my kitchen sink should have been kept me from posting. Fortunately, both issues have been resolved and I am happily writing to you again.

I saw these cute Seckel pears at the farmers market and had to buy a bagful. I couldn't resist. They were destined for my oven. At first, I thought I would use them in a pear tart. But then I decided they were so special that I needed to try something a bit more adventurous. A few summers ago, I went on a big clafoutis kick. I never made them with the traditional cherries (too much work), but instead substituted blueberries, apples, and sometimes almonds. The results were always the same--delicious.


In the past, The Joy of Cooking's recipe served me well. This time, I followed Julia Child's recipe from Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Her recipe is a bit more complicated. If I had read the instructions through to the end, I would've discovered that she wants you to start the cooking the dessert on the stove and finish it in the oven. Of course, I didn't notice this until I had already put the pan into the oven. I don't think it affected the outcome.


It has been a year or two since I made clafoutis. I remembered it to be more like a pancake than a custard. I won't say I was disappointed, but it's hard to overcome an expectation. The subtle flavor of the pear and sweet egg and milk custard were wonderful in combination. The almonds gave a nice bit of crunch to an otherwise smooth and delicate dessert. Unlike a custard, the clafoutis lacked the overwhelming brightness of egg yolk. While egg yolk would have enhanced its richness, I feel it also would have overpowered the soft pear flavor. It would be a shame to destroy the light and clean taste of pear, especially when flavorful pears are so hard to find. I did not have enough milk and used a combination of whole milk yogurt and whole milk.

I have no objections to the Joy of Cooking's take on claufoutis. In fact, I prefer it to Ms. Child's version. But sometimes it's good to try new things.


Pear Clafoutis
Julia Child. Mastering the Art of French Cooking, vol. 1
 
1 lb small pears, Seckel pears
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup whole milk yogurt
3 eggs
1/4 tsp lemon zest
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/3 cup almonds, chopped
2 tbsp butter
1/2 cup flour
1/3 cup sugar

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Fill a large bowl with a few ice cubes, water, and a splash of lemon juice. Peel and halve pears, submerging the pears in the water bath. This will prevent discoloration. I tried coring the first pear; but the fruit was so small and slippery that I quickly became frustrated and abandoned it. Luckily the seeds are small and hardly noticeable in the final product.

In a large mixing bowl, whip eggs with sugar until frothy. Add in milk, yogurt, and vanilla. Beat until thoroughly incorporated. Gradually stir in flour and a pinch of salt. Set aside.

Melt butter in a small saute pan. I used an eight inch copper bottom pan. Arrange the halved pears cut side down in the melted butter. Pour batter over pears. Bake in the oven at 375 degrees for 10 minutes. Lower oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake an additional 30-35 minutes or until the top is nicely puffed and golden brown. Toothpick test it for doneness.

Note: It will sink as it cools.

The Best Part of the Chicken with Braised Radish and Kale

Dear Devon,

Thanks for introducing me to kale. No longer will I pass up kale on menus or at the market. Since first eating it at your house, I can't get enough. I hope that's not a reflection of a poor iron count in my body! I've been reading up on the ways to prepare kale: soups, pastas, and side dishes. I will be sharing my discoveries with you.




A few months ago, I bought my first bunch of radishes and braised them in butter. The results were pretty fantastic. Since then, I've incorporated radishes into my diet, in both main courses and side dishes. The bright green, tangy kale seemed a likely companion to butter braised radishes. I started by melting a good lump of butter in a hot skillet and tossing in my radishes. I turn the flame down to medium-low / low. The slow cooking gives the radishes a nicely browned exterior but still maintains the slight crunch and really brings out their wonderful sweetness. After removing the stalks, I chop the kale into 2-inch pieces and wash. The kale is then added to the radishes and liberally salted. Kale can be a bit fibrous, so I poached the vegetables in a mixture of 1/2 cup of water and 1/4 cup of red wine. I finished my side dish with a sprinkle of lime juice.


A wonderful side dish calls out for a piece of fantastic meat. A beautifully carmelized thick cut pork chop or a fatty piece of prime rib would be great pairings. I opted for juicy roast chicken. For me, roast chicken is one of the easiest and most comforting meals to make. In my family, we fight over the dark meat; the white meat is eaten at room temperature or more likely is secreted away in tomorrow night's dinner. To avoid this, I roast only chicken thighs and legs. Though it doesn't look as impressive as beautifully roast whole chicken, roasting select parts allows everyone at the table an equal chance at the choice pieces.


Pick chicken with the skin on--it will insure juiciness. Once, when I wanted to cook a bit healthier, I tried roasting skinless chicken. I'm sure you can imagine how that turned out. Rub meat with olive oil, salt and pepper and toss in the oven. For added tastiness, I like to lay the chicken over a bed of onion rings (sometimes I use fennel fronds, rosemary sprigs, or lemon). This infuses flavor into the meat and gives the skin a nice crispness. Because the process is so easy, I try to roast enough chicken to last about three meals (including dinner). With the leftover chicken, I cut the meat off the bone and shred. Later in the week, I use it for chicken salads, tacos, or fried rice. It's a nice time saving solution.

Making pies tomorrow for the big feast. Promise to write about it soon!! Send my greetings to your parents.

Love love

M

Roast Chicken with Braised Radish and Kale
serves 2

2 chicken legs with skin
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 onion, sliced into rings
salt
pepper

2 cups chopped kale
5 large radishes
1 clove of garlic, smashed
1 tbsp butter
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup red wine
sprinkle of lime juice

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place the onions rings on the pan in a single layer. Remove chicken from packaging. Pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle each chicken leg with one tablespoon of olive oil. Generously salt and pepper on all sides. Roast in the oven for about 30 minutes. The chicken is done when the skin is nicely browned and crisp and the juices run clear when the meat is pierced with a fork.

In a large skillet, melt the butter. Clean radishes. Remove the roots and the stems. Cut into sixths or quarters, depending on size. For even cooking, cut radishes into similar sized pieces. Add radishes to melted butter and cook over a medium-low / low flame. After about five minutes, add the smashed garlic. Salt. Slowly braise the radishes until nicely golden on all sides, about 10 additional minutes. Prepare the kale by removing the hard stems. Save the stems for stock. Chop the leaves into 2-inch pieces. Add chopped kale to the skillet with radishes. Gently saute kale. Salt. Add 1/2 cup water and 1/4 cup red wine. Cover and steam for about 5-7 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Taste for seasoning. The radishes are done when they can be easily pierced with a fork. The kale should still have some crunch and retain its bright green color. Sprinkle with lime juice to taste.

Simple Yellow Squash and Mushroom Penne

Dear Devon,

Cooking in someone else's kitchen is always a challenge. When you walk in, you don't know what you'll find. The simplest dishes can seem overwhelming when you don't have your favorite knife or trusty pan. Best case scenario, the kitchen is better supplied than the corner restaurant, offering an army of pans, gadgets, utensils, spices and herbs, salts and oils. In my experience, these kitchens are rare birds. Most have the requisite skillet, pot, and baking tray with maybe a wooden spoon or a spatula or two. These are the situations that really test me. I have to adjust how I cook to a new environment, which leads to innovative uses of limited resources and sometimes absurd situations. I love the challenge!

For the past few weeks, I've been staying at a friend's apartment. Her place is nicely situated on the main drag of a bustling neighborhood in Brooklyn. The food culture is amazing and really accessible. I've taken to eating out a lot during my stay, but occasionally, I do fire up the stove. The kitchen is tucked into a tiny corner of the apartment. It contains the mandatory stove, sink, and fridge...but not much else. A cutting board takes up the entire counter space. The stove is possibly the smallest I've ever seen. And most amazingly, her microwave is a toaster too!! It toasts amazingly well for a two in one unit. At the moment, the biggest challenge is getting the pan on the stove. The burners are placed so close together that the pan actually straddles several burners. Fitting a pan and a pot on the stove is a tight squeeze. But somehow, I've managed to figure out a way to control the temperature and cook some pretty fantastic food.


I didn't want the first meal I prepared in this kitchen, other than cereal, to be too strenuous. This simple yellow squash and mushroom penne was the perfect place to start. Simple in its execution; a pretty basic recipe. It allowed me to get a feel for the kitchen- how to set myself up, the pitfalls of the over-sized pan, etc. I must admit, a small kitchen isn't that bad. I'm an arm's distance away from the sink and the stove. In one spot, I can chop onions, wash squash, and saute mushrooms.

I didn't really think too much about this dish before I made it. It came together pretty organically. Both the squash and mushrooms looked nice at the store, so I bought them without any real intentions. I love mushrooms sauteed in a bit of butter and sprinkled with salt. The mushrooms exude a wonderful earthy flavor and become almost meat-like. The yellow squash with its delicate flavor and light texture pairs nicely with the dark tones of the mushroom. I browned both in melted butter to give them a nuttiness and a bit of color. I finished off the pasta with a light sauce made simply by deglazing the pan with a bit of red wine. Parsley lends a bit of freshness and olive oil for richness.

I suppose, it really isn't about how good your pans are or the size of your kitchen. In the end, fresh ingredients, a bit of organization, and basic cooking techniques can take you a long way.

Yellow Squash and Mushroom Penne
serves 2

two small yellow squash, sliced
5 oz. small mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/4 c. white onion, chopped
1 tbsp butter
1/3 cup parsley, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup red wine
1/2 cup pasta water
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp olive oil
penne

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add enough penne for two servings.

In a large skillet, melt butter. Gently cook the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the squash and mushrooms. Spread out the mushrooms and squash into a single layer. Cook over a medium low flame, browning the squash and mushrooms on both sides. Sprinkle liberally with salt and toss. Add wine and pasta water to the skillet. Reduce the liquid until about half. Add cooked pasta, olive oil, and chopped parsley. Toss to distribute evenly.

Granola Again

Dear Michelle,

I feel like it's been taking me forever to get this post up. Days of attempts to sit down and just write it all out have passed, with nothing worthwhile going from my brain to the keyboard. Finally, I have a day with nothing due and nothing pressing to do, and I am sitting with my laptop at the kitchen table, drinking a pot of delicious white tea, determined that today I will successfully tell you how much I love granola.

I've been craving granola ever since I read your post about it. The cooler the weather gets, the better it sounds, and so last weekend, on a cold, rainy day, my good friend Koren came over with her tiny little baby and we made three different kinds of granola. It sounds ambitious, but when you've dedicated the whole day to granola-making and catching up, it's not only do-able, but relaxing.

The rain was blowing against the windows on and off all day, but we were drinking tea in an apartment warmed by the oven and the scent of toasting cinnamon, nuts and oats. Rain can be so nice when you are watching it from inside, and listening to all of the noises that come along with it: the "swoosh" of the cars passing in the street, the pitter-pat on window panes and roofs and in the puddles, and if you are unlucky enough to be outside, on your umbrella, or oppressively on the roof of your car.

Making so many batches of granola does take a little while, but it provided us with the perfect opportunity to chat about various things and play with the baby, who was on the couch with Jeff most of the time. Nothing warms this girl's heart like seeing her fiancee not only playing with the baby he's been tasked with watching, but also appearing to enjoy it. Except, that is, a perfect hot chocolate, and maybe foie gras.

Koren had come loaded with goodies from the Park Slope Food Co-op, which is legendary on this island of overpriced groceries, and we sorted out what variations we were going to make based on what we had all together:

- walnut, pumpkin seed, orange flavored dried cranberries (I love those things!), and dark chocolate
- pecan, dried cherry, meringue bits, and milk chocolate
- cashew, slivered almond, sunflower seed, dried blueberry

I've mentioned before how much I like this recipe from the site that never lets me down, which was the first I ever tried, and the only one I have tried so far. It really makes a great granola, rich and crunchy but not too sweet, and easy to modify. I kept the wet ingredients, the oats, and the sugar constant for the most part, and substituted various other things for those components that really make granola tasty: the nuts, seeds, and fruits. Meringue bits combined with the butteriness of the pecans made the second variation my favorite. The meringue crunches nicely, like "lucky charms marshmallows" (Jeff's words). I also added puffed rice for lightness; it's not all that noticeable, so next time I'll probably double it.

Granola in Three Variations:

1- Walnut, Pumpkin Seed, Orange Flavored Dried Cranberries, and Dark Chocolate

Dry Ingredients:

2 1/2 c oats (rolled, not instant)
1 1/2 c walnuts
1 c raw shelled pumpkin seeds
2 c puffed rice (doubled from the 1c I used; let me know how it works out)
1/4 c sugar (the recipe called for brown, which I didn't have and didn't want to venture out to get, so I added 1t molasses to the wet ingredients. Do either)
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t ginger
1/4 t nutmeg
1/2 t salt

3/4- 1 c dried cranberries
4 oz dark chocolate, either chopped or in chips ( I used 6 oz, and maybe I didn't mix it up enough, but parts of it were more like granola candy. Which is all fine and good and scrumptious, and if that's what you want, increase chocolate to 6 oz)

Wet Ingredients:

1/2 c unsweetened applesauce (this is the genius ingredient in this granola, and the reason I will always come back to this recipe. I wish I'd tried pureed pumpkin for this version. I'll try it next time.)
1/4 c rice syrup
1/8 c honey
1T oil (I used walnut; use something either mild or complimentary in flavor)
1t molasses (if white sugar is used above)

Preheat oven to 300 F. Combine all dry ingredients except fruit and chocolate in a large bowl, and wet ingredients in a smaller bowl, and mix each thoroughly. Mix together. Spread uniformly in a large baking sheet, and pop into oven. Stir every 10 minutes to ensure even cooking. At 30-45 minutes, when granola smells toasty and looks golden-brown, pull from oven. Stir, very thoroughly if you like your granola looser, less if you like it clumpy, and add fruit now if you are using it. This is one of those times when you add it till it looks like the right amount. At this point I put it in a large glass baking dish to re-use the baking sheet, but if you are one of those lucky people who has several of these, there's no need for that. Once granola has cooled to warm, but is no longer hot, add chocolate and stir gently to distribute. You do not want the chocolate to uniformly coat the granola; it should retain some of it's shape so that you find it in small clumps.
Let cool completely, and put in glass jars (Koren was prepared and brought some) or large plastic bags.

Variation 2: Pecan, Dried Cherry, Meringue Bits, and Milk Chocolate

Follow above directions, with the following ingredients:

2 c oats
1 1/2 c pecans
2 c puffed rice
2 c crushed meringue cookies
1 c chopped dried cherries
4 oz chopped milk chocolate (wait till just barely warn to mix in the milk chocolate; it has a lower melting temp.)
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t ginger
1/4 t nutmeg
1/2 t salt

Wet Ingredients:

use above listed, plus 1 T vanilla


Variation 3: Cashew, Slivered Almond, Sunflower Seed, Dried Blueberry

Dry Ingredients:

2 1/2 c oats
1 1/4 c slivered almonds
2 c puffed rice
1 c cashews
1 c sunflower seeds
1c dried blueberries

Wet Ingredients:

See first variation.

I discovered that mixing all three together is even better than any on it's own. It's a testamentto how good this stuff is that it's almost gone, though we made it last Saturday. I'm not even having it for breakfast, either; this is all snacking.

Citrus Cornmeal Crisps

Dear Devon,

A large bowl of lemons was left on my desk at work (props from a recent exhibition). This brings about the old joke: what do you do when the world gives you lemons? Ask any foodie and lemonade probably won't be the only answer. I wanted something besides lemon meringue pie and lemon scented roast chicken. In the Joy of Cooking, I found a master recipe for butter cookies and fourteen variations, including this recipe for Cornmeal Citrus Cookies.

I wanted to highlight the crisp, bold taste of fresh lemon. Basically, I wanted the cookies to have the character of a lemon pie. To achieve this, I increased the amount of zest ten fold, adding the entire zest of one lemon. Next, I worked the zest into the sugar, releasing the ultra fragrant lemon oils. It seems a shame to throw out the lemon peel, especially when it contains great flavor. I love the intensity and bright color of lemon zest and try to incorporate zest into my cooking and baking as much as possible.


The recipe called for vanilla extract, but I used a fresh vanilla bean. The tiny black seeds of the vanilla look nice against the pale yellow of the cookie. Nothing beats fresh vanilla beans. Super fragrant, the beans can be expensive and are quite fragile, but are definitely worth it. I store mine in ziploc bags in the dark corner of my pantry. I've also found a great website that sells high quality beans at affordable prices. Beans can be purchased individually or in packs of 10 up to 1,000. I find that a 10 pack lasts me about a year. I keep used beans in a jar with sugar for vanilla sugar at any time. It's another great staple to have in your pantry.


At first, I objected to the grittiness of the cornmeal, but have since been won over by the effect. I expected more of a shortbread-type cookie but instead got a crunchier, almost cracker-like cookie. The flavor of lemon pervades the entire cookie and pairs nicely with the coarseness of the cornmeal. I used a fluted round cookie cutter to give the cookies a rustic look.

The dough can get a bit difficult to work with once it has been rolled out too many times. I advise rolling out the dough twice, which will make about 60 - 65 cookies at 2 1/2-inches in diameter. I gathered the scraps and flattened them into a rough square, which I baked along with the cookies. I intended to use the scraps as a crust for a simple fruit dessert. My plan was to smear the baked cookie with jam and top it with fresh berries. However, the cookie was too sweet when topped with jam. Instead, I broke it into pieces making rough shards and stuck them into a large bowl of ice cream.


Cornmeal Lemon Crisps
adapted from The Joy of Cooking
makes 60 cookies

1 lemon, zested
1 cup sugar
1 egg yolk
1 egg, whole
1 cup cornmeal
1 1/2 cup flour
1 vanilla bean
1/2 tsp salt
2 sticks (8 oz) butter, softened

Let butter come to room temperature, maybe an hour's wait. Meanwhile, zest one lemon. Mix lemon zest with sugar. Crush the zest into the sugar to release the oils onto the sugar. Measure out corn meal and flour, set aside.

Using an electric mixer, beat softened butter and lemon sugar together, until fluffy and pale yellow. Add in egg yolk and egg, beating thoroughly after each addition. Periodically scrape down the sides. Slice vanilla bean down the center. Using the back of a knife, scrape the bean to remove the tiny black seeds. Add vanilla seeds to the butter mix. Beat in cornmeal, flour, and salt. A wet dough should form. Gather into a ball and wrap with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to one day.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil or wax paper.

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Halve dough. Refrigerating the second half. With a floured rolling pin, roll out dough to a 1/4 inch thickness. If the dough begins to tear, return to the fridge. Using a cookie cutter, cut dough. A flat spatula can be helpful to transport cut cookies onto a baking sheet. Bake about 12 minutes, rotating the baking sheet half way through baking. Cookies should be golden brown but still soft. They crisp up when cooled. Remove to a cooking rack. Allow the baking sheet to cool before filling with cookies. Repeat with the reserved second half of dough.

Beet and Fennel Salad with Lime and Cilantro

Dearest Michelle,

It's been a rough week. I've had some short deadlines on retouching work, and I had a few misses in the kitchen, plus, even worse, an undocumented success!

The biggest confidence crusher was the ramen. I decided I wanted to make Korean ramen soup from scratch (except for the noodles; I'm not insane). The whole doomed idea started with two beautiful pieces of beef shank, and then cold weather always makes me crave Korean food. It's the best non-dairy comfort food around, as far as I'm concerned.

So I picked up some noodles that looked like ramen at the giant Asian grocery store in Chinatown (an aisle of just noodles! It's amazing), grabbed some mushrooms, veggies, and Korean hot chili paste, and prepared to make my fiance's heart swell with pride. Looks like it would be good, right?





There's no after photo for a reason. It was ok, and I managed to alter the final product to create some satisfactory lunches, but it was more of a using up than a tucking in. Pretty blah, and muddy tasting. I'll conquer it someday.


Sunday I decided to make a Mexican-spices roast chicken to go with the rest of the chimichurri. It was good; the chicken was juicy (it's a never-fail recipe, but I'll write it out in the original form someday), but not overwhelmingly flavored with the spices. It was great with the chimichurri and smashed roasted potatoes, but nothing new or exciting enough to write about.


And then, finally, I found inspiration in the vegetable store. I had a migraine, and I was craving vegetables and vinegar, something clean and fresh. Now, I love beets, and they now show up in our meals on a regular basis. I get this from my grandmother, who will eat them right out of a can. I didn't even know I liked beets until a few years ago; my father hates them, and denigrated the undeserving roots (along with tuna casserole) so much in my childhood that I thought them not worth any attention. Oh, boy was I wrong. They are sweet and tender, and go so well with vinegar. Plus, you know how I love anything with an intense color. Sometimes I mix the leftovers with egg salad; the pickled flavor goes so well with it, and who doesn't like magenta lunch food? (turns out a lot of people think it's very strange, actually)



Here, I took boiled and marinated beets and tossed them with bright, crisp fennel that had been sitting in a little lime juice to mellow it. I'm not a big fan of cooked fennel, but I love it thinly sliced in salads, especially in the winter for some reason. I had limes on hand, so I thought I'd substitute that citrus for the traditional orange that fennel goes so well with. The whole dish is rounded out by a sprinkling of pungent cilantro. It was exactly what I wanted. I just ate the leftovers for lunch with a thick slice of buttered toast, and it was amazing.




Fennel and Beet Salad

1 bunch beets (look for beets with greens attached. These are an indication of freshness, and can be prepared like kale or chard. Leave 2 inches of stem on the beet when trimming leaves off, and don't trim the root)
1 large bulb of fennel, shoots trimmed off
2 small limes, 1 zested
vinegar ( I used orange-muscat-champagne vinegar from Trader Joe's that I am partial to. White wine vinegar would be good as well)
cilantro
olive oil
Dijon mustard
kitchen gloves

Trim and wash beets, then boil till tender when pierced with a knife, about 20-30 minutes. While they cool a bit, make the vinaigrette: squeeze half a lime into a bowl, and add about a 1/2 t mustard, a pinch of salt, the zest, and about 5 T vinegar. Blend, then slowly whisk in about the same amount of olive oil. I tend to like my vinaigrette tart, so keep tasting and use more or less oil as desired, but remember that the beets are naturally sweet. Add juice of the other half a lime if it needs more.
Use the kitchen gloves to rub the beet skins and stems off under running water. I love this part; the skins just slip right off, and everything in your sink turns magenta. Keep gloves on (or your hands will also turn magenta), and slice beets in half, then into half-moons, and add to vinaigrette. Let sit at least an hour, tossing occasionally.
Thinly slice fennel, and let sit in juice of half a lime and a few T of vinegar for a few minutes. Add beets, toss. Sprinkle with a small handful of cilantro leaves; how many depends on final amount of beets and fennel. The flavor should be just noticeable, not overwhelming.

Carrot Soup

Dear Devon,

Growing up in San Francisco, I was not a big soup drinker. Moving to LA didn't change that. But somehow, cold weather changes everything. Now that I live in New York and spend seven months in a scarf and gloves, soup makes sense. Over the years, I have developed a number of soups to fit my lifestyle. I have quick impromptu soups, when I find myself making soup almost without intending to; then there are the soups that I prepare in advance and save for later, sometimes in the form of a concentrated base. When I am ready to eat, I pour the concentrate into a pot, add water or stock, heat, and eat.

Making a smooth and light carrot soup is tricky. If it is too smooth, the texture comes off more like baby food than a soup for adults with a full set of teeth. Another pitfall is the stick-to-your-ribs, hearty lumberjack soup. This happens when you don't blend long enough or add enough liquid. I still struggle with this step and live in fear of burning out my blender.

I always purchase carrots with the greens still attached. It's the best way to insure the maximum freshness. Choose bright orange and blemish free carrots with vibrant green leaves. Freakish shapes are fine. It doesn't affect the taste, and once they've been pureed, no one will know. I find the funny shapes charming. I also love the crisp, fresh smell released when I chopping off their stems. That alone is enough to make me purchase carrots with their greens every time.
For this soup, carrots are the star, but I sneak in a couple of important supporting actors. Fennel, if you haven't already discovered it, is amazing. Some people dislike the dark, licorice or anise-like taste of fennel, while others can't stop munching on it. Eaten raw, it makes for a refreshing salad or snack, but I prefer fennel roasted. The flavors are calmer and less intense. Fennel balances the sweetness of carrots. Barely noticeable in the soup, it is more of an interesting background flavor. For this soup, roasting the carrots and fennel brings out the most flavor. Sunflower seeds, nutmeg, and cumin give the soup an earthy quality and a bit of spice.

How much to dilute the soup depends on how thick you like it. It's not an exact science. For reference, in this recipe, I used three cups of water for an entire batch. I did not make concentrate this time.

I like to top the soup with a small handful of arugula to add some freshness. If you are feeling decadent, finish the soup with a drizzle of cream or chopped walnuts. Serve with crusty bread, perfect for mopping up soup sloshed on the sides of the bowl. I made a wonderful parsley and garlic goat cheese spread. No recipe- just softened goat cheese, parsley, a few cloves of raw garlic, and coarse salt. It tasted unbelievable.


Carrot soup, not just for babies and lumberjacks, but New Yorkers too.


Carrot Soup
serves 6 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer

2 bunches of carrots
1 bulb of fennel
2 cloves of garlic
1 1-inch nub of ginger, skinned and chopped
1/2 onion, diced
1/2 tsp fennel seed
1/2 tsp cumin
3 tsp sunflower seeds
1 sprig of rosemary
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp salt
1/8 tsp nutmeg
3 cups of water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Peel and chop carrots into 2-inch long pieces. Remove the upper fronds and base of the fennel. Halve the fennel and slice into 1/2-inch thick slices. Cut the ends off two cloves of garlic. Crush with the flat side of a knife, do not remove the papery skin. Place chopped carrots, fennel, and crushed garlic on a foil-lined baking sheet. Toss the veggies with 1 tbsp olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast in the oven until the carrots can be easily pierced by the tip of a knife, roughly 30-35 minutes. Cool about 10 minutes.

In a large Dutch oven, heat 1 tbsp of oil over moderate heat. Add one sprig of rosemary. Cook until the oil is fragrant. Add chopped onion and ginger. Saute until the onions are translucent, 5 minutes. Add sunflower seeds, cumin, and fennel seeds and gently toast. Remove rosemary. Set aside.

Working in batches, place the cooled veggies into a blender along with sauteed onion mixture. Pour in one cup of water. Puree until smooth. Return the pureed mix to the Dutch oven. I managed to puree everything in two batches, using one cup of water per batch. In its pureed form, the soup is powerful and thick. At this point, I reserve some of the puree in glass jars and set aside for future use. Pour one additional cup of water into the Dutch oven. Add 1 tsp salt and nutmeg. Bring to a gentle boil, just to heat through.

Serve with a small handful of arugula and black pepper.

Arugula and Cantaloupe Salad

Dear Devon,

Thanks for having us over the other night. Dinner was amazing! I must confess, I am a bit nervous about cooking with bacon fat. Perhaps I will have a change of heart, but until then, I'm passing along this easy recipe for a delicious arugula salad. It's always good to balance your diet. And as my petite frame can't bear an extra ten pounds, I've decided to skip the train transfer at Times Square and instead walk the seven avenue blocks to and from the train daily rather than skip out on all the great food. True, walking two miles a day is not a substitute for real aerobic exercise, but I figure it won't hurt. Now, the only real issue is the impending cold weather.

Arugula salad is one of my favorites. But, strangely, I don't like the taste of arugula. By itself, I find it overwhelming- too peppery and acidic. How then, you ask, can I say that arugula salad is one of my favorites? Somehow, combined with any number of ingredients, both mundane and exotic, the aggressive flavor of arugula is tamed. The possibilities are endless. Some of my favorite salads with arugula include:

a) tomato, egg, and dried cranberry
b) bacon, hazelnuts, steamed asparagus
c) roasted chicken, figs, and goat cheese.

Lightly dressed with a sprinkling of lemon juice and good drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of salt and optional pepper, arugula salad makes a great first course or a healthy lunch.


In this easy and elegant salad, I include conventional salad ingredients like toasted walnuts and goat cheese, and use diced cantaloupe to liven up the salad. Papaya is also a nice substitute and is actually my first choice. In the throws of fall, this delectable summer fruit is no longer available, or at least not to the budget-minded. Both fruits bring an unusual freshness and lightness to the spicy arugula, buttery walnuts, and tangy cheese. Serving salads mixed with fruit is one of my recent happy discoveries. In fact, I'm surprised it isn't more common, given how tasty it can be.

Picking a melon can be difficult, but I have a few tricks. I look at the veining on the skin: veins should be of an even thickness throughout the melon; the color should be light tan throughout. Check the stem: most melons arrive at supermarkets with their stems removed. Gently press the indentation where the stem used to be. It should be firm but have a bit of give. Finally, the fruit should feel heavy for its size. That's how I choose a sweet and ripe melon.


My dressing of choice is usually a simple lemon juice and olive oil dressing. But for this salad, I decided something a bit more complex would be nice. I chose a balsamic vinegar, whisking in a touch of honey to smooth out the rough edge of vinegar. In general, I don't believe in buying salad dressings- you only need a few ingredients on hand to make a great dressing. It doesn't make sense to use the store-bought stuff.


Arugula and Cantaloupe Salad

2 generous handfuls of arugula, washed and dried
1/3 cup diced cantaloupe
1/4 cup walnuts, chopped and toasted
2 tbsp goat cheese
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 tsp honey
3 tsp olive oil
salt and pepper

Wash your arugula, blotting dry in between layers of paper towels. Use a salad spinner for quicker results. Wash the outside of the melon and slice in half. Remove the seeds and slice into what my sister calls "smiles." Remove the orange flesh, cutting away just where the flesh turns green. Dice the cleaned melon into one inch chunks. Place the walnuts onto a sheet pan and toast in the oven at 350 degrees until fragrant and light golden brown, about 7 minutes. Allow the toasted walnuts to cool before roughly chopping.

In a large bowl, toss together cleaned arugula, chopped cantaloupe, and toasted walnuts. Crumble in goat cheese. Whisk together balsamic vinegar, olive oil and honey. Drizzle over salad and toss. Liberally salt and pepper.

The proportions are general suggestions. Build the salad according to your personal taste. If you like a lot of cheese, add more. Don't like walnuts? Use pecans or pumpkin seeds.

Soon,
Michelle

Chorizo 2: the Other Half of the Link

Dear Michelle,

It was so nice to see you guys last night! There's nothing quite like an impromptu weeknight dinner party, huh? It's such a guilty pleasure, especially when you eat like we did. Of course, I can't forget the cava. It went perfectly with our dinner.


At least what we ate last night was somewhat healthy, with the pan-fried potatoes and chorizo balanced by silky sauteed chard and crisp green beans flavored with garlic, chili, and lime. It's too bad that we got impatient after the first couple of smashed fried potatoes didn't work out; although they were also good fried in slices, the smashed potatoes were so pretty, and the texture was superior.



Just like before, the brilliant orange fat colored the potatoes, and the chorizo cubes were crispy, flavorful, and succulent. There are so many ways a potato can be fried, and all of them are good, but I'm glad you suggested trying to fry them smashed. I liked how the interior stays fluffy and moist, while the outside crisps up golden brown and delicious. Of course, frying them in pork fat doesn't hurt the flavor. After I used the first half of the chorizo, I knew I had to wait till you came over before I used the second half.


The big surprise of the night was the kale and green beans. I had wanted to try out a recipe for brussels sprouts and green beans sauteed in garlic, chili and mint that was in the last Gourmet (sob, such a good last issue), but at the vegetable store, the kale looked amazing and the brussels sprouts didn't. Now, I love kale, but I'm aware that the majority of the population does not. Jeff falls somewhere in the middle; he'll usually eat it if I put it in front of him, but he'd never ask for it. However, last night, I believe both of the boys went in for seconds, and Jeff remarked that it would have been just fine without the green beans! I have to say, it was even better than kale usually is. Steaming it first really makes a big difference, and then when it is sauteed with garlicy olive oil and a touch of chili oil and lime to brighten it up, it becomes truly delicious. I think we're having the rest tonight with some tamales I have in the freezer.

As requested, recipes follow. That is, except for the mayonnaise sauce I made. I was not satisfied with it.

Can't wait to see you again soon! Until then,

D



Smashed Fried Potatoes with Chorizo, and Chili-Lime Kale and Green Beans

For the potatoes and chorizo:

small round potatoes
herbs de provence
pork fat or olive oil
1/2 a link of cured chorizo, casing peeled and chopped into 1/4 inch cubes (about a half cup)
salt

Steam potatoes till tender when pierced with a knife, about 10-15 minutes or more depending on size (while they steam, start kale and green beans, below). Let cool slightly. Heat a pan till fairly hot, then add 2 T fat, and chorizo. Fry till crispy, then remove, leaving fat in pan. Smash a potato till about 1/4-1/3 inch thick (you do not want it to fall apart, just flatten). I took a piece of tinfoil , folded it with the potato inside, and smashed it with my hand. It's fun. Fry potatoes in pan, adding fat as needed, just enough so the pan does not become dry. Sprinkle a pinch of herbs de provence on top. Press with spatula and do not flip until very brown underneath (or they will fall apart!), then repeat with other side. Salt. Alternately, you can slice and fry. Wimp.

For the kale and green beans:

1 large bunch of kale
several handfuls of green beans (sorry, I forgot to measure, I'd guess about 1lb), ends removed
olive oil
clove garlic, inner stem removed, chopped
pepper flakes ( I used allepo pepper, which has more flavor than heat)
lime
chili oil
salt


Rinse, then steam kale whole in a large pot until tender, 5-10 minutes (now is a good time to start frying the potatoes). Remove, squeezing lightly to release excess water, and roll up and cut into ribbons about 1 inch thick. Heat oil in saute pan over medium heat, then add garlic and about 1/4 tablespoon of pepper. When garlic has softened, add kale and stir occasionally. Steam green beans 3-5 minutes or until crisp-tender, then add to kale. Let sit over low heat, stirring occasionally, till potatoes are done. Squeeze half the lime in, add 1-2 teaspoons of chili oil (to taste- that stuff is hot), and salt to taste.

Make up a mayonnaise sauce. If it's good, send me the recipe.

Fall Gnocchi with Cabbage, Apples, and Chorizo

Dear Michelle,

You know, the first time I remember having madeleines was when you sent them to me my first year in college. I was so impressed! Can't wait to try this recipe.

I have been on a bit of a gnocchi craze lately. Ever since I lived in Florence, packaged gnocchi have never been the same for me. Compared to the puffy little potato pillows they have there (which are not really that hard to make from scratch, but time-consuming), store-bought gnocchi seemed so dry and heavy. That is, until I recently saw Jacques Pepin's technique, on a public television rerun of one of More Fast Food My Way. It seemed so obvious; instead of boiling them, you saute them in fat, then cover almost all the way with water and let simmer till they are almost dry. They are still a whole different thing than Florentine gnocchi, but they deserve a respect all their own. They get a little crispy and golden on the outside, and soft and tender on the inside, and they are perfect for this cold weather when you want something substantial.


Jeff and I tried a chorizo taco at our favorite Mexican restaurant (this place is seriously good, and easy on the wallet. Try the tongue taco. For the squeamish, there are lots of terrific normal tacos, and all sorts of other delightful things), and loved it. When we saw some chorizo at a local bodega, he wanted me to try cooking something with it. I think that the fresh version might be better in this dish; I imagine it would fall apart instead of staying in chunks, but those were perfectly fine. Like usual, it was a winning suggestion on his part. Not only does the sausage ooze a bright orange fat when it is cooked, and I do love anything that intensely colorful, but the flavor is amazing. It is smoky and peppery from the paprika, and crunchy and delicious like anything made from the fatty parts of a pig tends to be. Add in soft gnocchi, silky sauteed cabbage, and just-cooked apples, and you've got a winner of a cool-weather meal.



Fall Gnocchi with Cabbage, Apple, and Chorizo

1/2 link chorizo, casing removed, diced (about a 1/2 cup)
1/2 package pre-made gnocchi
1/4-1/2 small green cabbage, core removed, cut in thin ribbons
1 apple
bacon fat and/or olive oil
butter
1/4 cup chicken stock (optional)
splash beer (optional)
water
splash apple cider vinegar
salt and pepper
some sort of cheese to grate on top (optional, and we used aged Gouda)


Add 1T fat and/or oil to large, heated frying pan. Add chorizo and cook, stirring, till crispy and just browned. Remove, leaving fat in pan. Add gnocchi, and cook, stirring occasionally, till crispy and lightly browned (they will turn orange from chorizo fat, or I'd say till golden). Add cabbage and saute till mostly wilted. Add stock, beer, and water, or just water, till gnocchi and cabbage is 3/4 covered. Turn down to slow simmer, cover, and let soak up water for about 10 minutes, or until almost dry. Add apples. Add a splash of vinegar and pepper to taste. Stir in chorizo. Add salt to taste, and stir in 1T of butter. Plate and grate cheese on top if using.